October 13, 2020

How to Choose Your Cup Size


The joy of cup sized patterns like Cashmerette is that you can get an amazing fit straight away, without having to make tons of bust adjustments! But to do that it’s important to pick the right cup size, and today we’ll be showing you how.

how to choose your cup size

Cashmerette has a unique cup size system, with separate C/D, E/F and G/H cup size pieces on all our patterns. Because bra sizes are variable, we don’t recommend using your bra size to pick your size—instead, you’ll use your measurements. Here’s how!

Step 1: Take your measurements

Start by taking your high bust and full bust measurements.

To measure your high bust, place the measuring tape over the top of your bust and underneath your armpits. The tape will be horizontal at your back and front, and diagonal at your side. Keep your arms down when recording your high bust measurement (the model is lifting her arm so you can see where the tape goes).

To measure your full bust, place the measuring tape around the fullest part of your bust. Keep your arms down when recording your full bust measurement.

Step 2: Circle your measurements on the body measurements chart

Here are the measurements charts for our two sizes ranges. You’ll want to find and circle your high bust and full bust measurements on the corresponding lines.

If your high bust is between sizes, always go up to the next size for your starting size.

Sizes 12-32

Sizes 0-16

Step 3. Consider three possibilities

1. Your high bust and full bust are in the same size.

Great! This means you can simply pick that cup size and carry on about your business.

For example, if your high bust is a 53″ and your full bust is a 57″, you would make the 28 E/F.

2. Your high bust is one size, and your full bust is in a larger size.

If your high bust is in one size, and your full bust is larger than any of the options in that size, you may need to do a full bust adjustment. Look at the largest cup option for that size, and subtract it from your full bust measurement to determine the size of your FBA.

For example, if your high bust is 53″ but your full bust is 59″, you’d start with a size 28 G/H (that has a full bust of 58″) and do a 1 inch FBA.

3. Your high bust is one size, and your full bust is in a smaller size

If your high bust is one size, and your full bust is smaller than any of the options in that size, you may need to do a small bust adjustment. Look at the smallest cup option for that size, and subtract your full bust measurement to determine the size of your SBA.

For example, if your high bust is 53″ but your full bust is 54″, you’d start with a size 28 C/D (that has a full bust of 56″) and do a 2 inch SBA.

And that’s how you choose your cup sizes in Cashmerette patterns! Let us know if you have any questions in the comments below.

2 thoughts on “How to Choose Your Cup Size

  1. Donna Greene says:

    I entered my measurements into the ‘find your size’ table and it said I need a SBA. But I have a small back so I am thinking what I really need is to take the back in. What should I do?

    1. Kelly says:

      Hey! If I were you, I’d start by getting a clearer idea of where measurements lie. Find something snug to wear that will give you a clear idea of where you side seams should be and take your measurements from seam to seam across the back at the shoulders, across the shoulder blades, across the lower back and across the back waist. Also measure your front in those same areas. This will allow you to get a clearer sense where you’re full and where you’re small. For example, I have a broad upper back, so though I measure in a 14 E/F in Cashmerette.sizing, I often do well with a C/D cup and a combination of brief shoulder and broad back adjustment. I also know that I have a long torso, even though I’m 5’7″, and that I I always need to add length.

      This Threads article does a good job of walking you through most measurements, though I would add those back and front seam to seam measurements, as well as a knee and upper thigh for future pants.

      https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2008/11/03/how-to-measure-up

      I took a Craftsy class called Fast Track Fitting with Joi Mahon that explained how to compare these measurements to to your pattern to pre-adjust moist of your pattern. I find this saves me a lot of fabric by minimizing fitting adjustments.

      https://www.craftsy.com/class/fast-track-fitting-in-the-details/#

      If all this seems too complicated, just get some cheap fabric and make up an experimental garment and see how well you like it (generally a good idea anyway). You’ll definitely be able to see how the back is lying and make your choices for your good garment.

Let me know what you think!