Many Cashmerette patterns come with two bum fit options to help you get a great fit right out of the packet: standard and full bum. Here’s how to choose the bum fit that’s right for you!
Here at Cashmerette, we’re all about helping you get a fantastic fit for your curves. That’s why we provide you with multiple cup size options for a great fit for your bust—and we do the same for your bum!
Many of our pants and skirt patterns include two bum fit options: the standard bum fit, and the full bum fit which includes a 1″ full bum adjustment already done for you. That gives you more room and length across the seat of the garment without having to do any extra work!
(Note that some of our older patterns, such as the Ames Jeans and the Calder Pants & Shorts, refer to the bum options as “apple” and “pear”. These correspond to the “standard” and “full bum” fit options.)
One important thing to keep in mind: the tummy fit is the same for both bum fits. The differences between the two is entirely in the back.
So how do you know which bum fit is right for you?
The Standard Fit
You are likely going to be best in the standard bum option if:
- Typically, you find pant waistbands are constricting, and the back bum/thigh area is a bit baggy.
- Typically, pants waistbands cut in when the pants fit your hips.
- You have a straighter hip curve rather than a very curved one.
- You have a low hip-to-waist ratio.
Here you can see that the “curve” between Andrea’s waist and hip is pretty minimal–she has a proportionately large waist and small hips.
The Full Bum Fit
You are likely going to be best in the full bum option if:
- Typically, you find that pants waistbands gape at the back, but are tight through the hips. Conversely, when pants fit you in the hips, the waistband is much too big.
- You have a very curved hipline.
- You have a higher hip-to-waist ratio.
- You’re an hourglass with a defined waist
Here you can see that Dawn has a more pronounced curve between her waist and her hip.
Still not sure which bum option to choose?
Here are some additional thoughts:
- It’s always a good idea to make a muslin first! And remember to baste your side seams before you do final stitching/topstitching, so you will have time to make adjustments.
- If the hip area is too big or too small in the back and the front, you may need to grade between sizes.
- Remember, most of us have to make some adjustments to most patterns. Pick a fit as a good starting point, but you’ll likely have to make further changes, so don’t get too worried about having a perfect fit right away.
We hope that helps you choose your ideal bum fit! If you have any questions, let us know in the comments below.
Does our pelvis type, apple or pear, change when you gain or lose weight? Many of us have gained “pandemic pounds” this year and have this question. For me I seem more pear shaped than I used to, with my hips widening to an alarming degree. But my waist has also grown. Extra weight just accumulated all over and I am not sure what I am. If I take my new (temporary) measurements will they still give me a hint as to which pelvis style I should try first? Assuming that I succeed in returning to me pre-pandemic weight and size (I want this, not because other people say I should) then will I still use the same “fruit” pelvis shape as now? This is seriously confusing. Jenny, you must have thought about this as you blog about baby weight and you now often refer to the changes you underwent since giving birth. Who would know better? Won’t you please shed some light. Thank you so much.
People put on weight in different ways, so there’s no absolute answer to whether people get more apple or pear when you change weight. For instance, I always put everything on around my waist, making me more of an “apple”. But a lot of people put weight on their bum, which makes them more “pear”, or could move them from being an apple into a pear. So it’s not about what weight you are, it’s still about your waist and hip ratio as it explained in the blog post.
Could you please post a drawing of the apple and pear crotch curves so we can see the difference that way? Thanks.
I’ve learnt things from this first visit to site and although it’ll be useful to learn i don’t like what I learnt. Do to what I call baby blankets from a very big baby 10 year ago my belly area is 2 to 3 sizes bigger than rest. Thought I’d be one. Its kinda put me off with sizing no
My lower tummy or hi hip is 10 inches bigger than my waist and to make matters more complicated I have thin legs. I have given up on making pants for myself. Would love advice.
I have the Calder pattern but haven’t made it yet. I have the same problem as Debbie; hips are way bigger than waist, plus I’m short; just over 5’1″. To make matters even worse, I have “Big Bubble” hips and butt–jut out immediately from the waist which makes grading difficult. I can wear a 14-18 top with hip alteration, depending on pattern designer/manufacturer, but need at least a 3-5X bottom. I have to extensively alter every pattern and have difficulty getting the hip/butt curve to look right. Using the Appple/Pear comparison should give me a better starting point. It’s also easier now that we have the layers option. I can print a couple layers closest to measurements and use them to recreate the curves, but it’s still a challenge with that much difference in sizes. One additional thought: it is very, very helpful if the intended/designed bust, waist, and hip placement is noted on the pattern, which some designers are no longer adding. I know we all have different body shapes and heights, but those placements give a starting point that is helpful for alteration. I always, always have to measure, compare both width and height to the actual pattern measurements and add width, but it’s much harder if the intended bust/waist/hip placement is not given for the particular pattern design, especially if the garment is designed to fit loosely. Yes, the looseness covers a lot, but it’s the overall proportion and design shape that get skewed if those placements are ignored. I have several garments that don’t look all that much like the design because those design points are now in different places. Maybe I need to upgrade my guessing skills? LOL I’ve held off on making the Cashmerette patterns that I’ve bought because many are designed for knits (which show every lump and bump on me) but now I feel better about getting started.
Hi! You’ll find the bust, waist and hip indicated with notches on our patterns, including the Calder (in that case, the waistband is the waist level).
I love this concept for the starting point in pants. I think I am a rectangle though and am not sure what I would use for my starting point. I have a 34 inch waist and 40 inch hips. I have thick legs also. I have a pretty flat stomach so my inches are more in my width. Any advice? Thanks
Hi Pam! You can use our handy size calculator to get a personalized size recommendation: https://cashmerette.com/sizing
Thanks,
Ayelet at Cashmerette
I have a 42″ waist and 47″ hip. The size chart puts me at a 22 in the waist (which is disheartening; I’m a 14/16 in most commercially-made pants) and a 16 pear based on the hip. Is it really possible to grade 4 entire sizes? Or am I reading this entirely wrong?
What I was taught in my sewing class was DO NOT COMPARE shop sizes to designer sizes. Each designer has their own sizing, thus you need to re measure yourself each time you make something new. The reason we make clothes is likely because shop clothes never sit of fit correctly and we want what we make to be comfortable. So in my book, don’t get stressed about the different sizes, make the size that works and sits beautifully on your body (be it big or small). I hope this eases your mind.
Hi Esther–like Sonya said, sewing pattern sizes are different from ready-to-wear sizes, so it’s best to go by your measurements. We have resources for grading between sizes here: cashmerette.com/grading
-Ayelet at Cashmerette
Just a reminder that the number for a pattern size is only to make it easier to cross-reference between the instructions and the actual pattern. There tend to be smaller differences between pattern sizes (often to allow for a better fit and easier adjustment between sizes) than there are for commercially made clothes. So, it makes sense that, once you get into the larger sizes, the numbers would be bigger, just like if you were to measure in cm instead of inches.
My daughter and I have the issue of high hip curving out just below the waist with fullness on the side and back. For me, it is more at the side and less fullness in the butt toward the thigh area. I have about 10 inches difference in the waist and hip. For my daughter, it is fullness below the waist in the high hip all the way across the back and a flat butt. Her waist/hip ratio is about a 5 inch difference. What other adjustments would need to be made? We both have no luck finding pants in the stores that are really suitable.
Hi Catrina, Please send us an email at hello@cashmerette.com with your measurements for personalized fit advice! Thanks!
My waist is 34” and my hips are 42.5”. When you look at me straight on, I look more rectangle. Meaning my hips aren’t much wider than my waist. Because I have some muscle, my thighs are thick and the thickness in my hip measurement is mostly in my butt (not hip width). Does that make sense? I’ll def make a muslin, but I’m not sure if I’m a pear or apple. I don’t want a bunch of extra fabric at the side seams because that’s not where my width is. So what would be a good starting point for my muslin?