One of the most common adjustments curvy women have to make in a woven top – apart from a Full Bust Adjustment, which you shouldn’t need in Cashmerette Patterns! – is to change the height of the bust darts. We all have differently shaped and positioned busts, so it stands to reason that a pattern’s bust dart height might not work for you as designed.
Bust darts should point directly at your bust apex (the part of your bust that sticks the furthest out – often, but not always, your nipple), and for larger cup sizes, the darts should end around 2 inches before the apex.
First up, you need to check if the bust darts on the Springfield Top will work for you as drafted. The ideal way to do this is to make up a quick test garment, called a “muslin”, out of some cheap fabric – you’ll be able to check the sizing and any adjustments. Mark your bust apex directly onto the muslin with a pen, and you’ll be able to see instantly if it’s in the right place. Not making a muslin? You can approximate the position by placing the pattern piece against your body (remember about seam allowances) and you can get a rough idea.
Trace the front pattern piece off -you want to do this so if the adjustment doesn’t work first time you still have the original pattern piece to refer to. Make sure the bust dart legs are in there.
Now, draw a line directly through the middle of the bust dart, and extend it past the end of the dart – your bust apex should fall on this line, about 2 inches from the end of the dart. If it doesn’t, and is higher or lower, you are going to need to change the height of the dart.
If you do need to change it, draw a box around the dart.
Now, cut the box out.
It’s then a simple case of sliding the box up or down as needed, to get the bust dart to the right height.
Fill in a piece of tissue paper behind the pattern, tape it down.
Now just even out the side seam above the dart, and trim off any excess tissue paper.
It’s as simple as that! Let me know if you have any questions.