February 8, 2021

Introduction to Our New 0 – 32 Size Range

I’m thrilled that Cashmerette Patterns are now available in an even wider size range, to help even more sewists banish the Full Bust Adjustment! Want to know why we decided to expand? Check out the blog post here.

Now the new size range is here, I’m sure you have lots of questions about how it all works, so let’s get into it.

New Size Range Basics

What are the new size ranges?

Cashmerette now has two size ranges: 0 – 16, and 12 – 32. They both have cup sizes C/D, E/F and G/H.

Do the size ranges have names?

They don’t! They will be called “0 – 16” and “12 – 32”. We’re unique (I think?!) in the sewing pattern world in being a brand that started in larger sizes and then expanded downwards to a 0 – so it would be pretty weird to suddenly call our existing range “plus” or “curve” etc. Why would our current customers suddenly be called something to suggest they’re not average bodied sewists?! (Let’s not forget that plus is average!).

We did consider naming the new 0 – 16 range something different, but the term commonly used in the industry, “straight size”, isn’t currently widely understood and it’s also potentially confusing. So, we’re just going to call them what they are!

Cashmerette 0 - 32 size range
Faith is wearing the Appleton Dress in the new 0-16 size range.

What are the new measurement charts?

Here is the 0-16 size chart:

And the 12-32 size chart:

What format is the new size range available in?

We plan to have both size ranges available in both PDF and printed format.

Why are there two size ranges rather than having them all in one pattern?

The new 0 – 16 size range was developed separately to the 12 – 32 range (see more on that below!), which means that if you overlay the 12 – 16 sizes from both ranges they don’t match up. The result of this is that it’s not possible to nest the two sets of patterns, and in addition, they have different pattern inventories, cutting layouts, fabric charts, and so on. We have a substantial overlap between the size ranges which should cover *almost* everyone grading between sizes, so having the size ranges split should not cause an issue for the vast majority of sewists.

Cashmerette 0 - 32 size range
Suzi is wearing the Appleton Dress in the new 0-16 size range.

How to pick the right size range for you

How can I tell what size I am in Cashmerette?

Measure yourself and head over to our amazing Size Calculator!

How do I tell which size range is for me if I’m a size 12 – 16?

If you’re a size 12 – 16, that means that theoretically you could fit into either size range.

  • If you find the existing 12 – 32 pattern fits you well, stick with that!
  • If you find any of the following issues in the 12 – 32 patterns, you may be better off trying the 0 – 16 range (read more below on how to get a hold of the pattern for free):
    • Your high bust measurement is below a 12, even if the rest of your measurements are 12+
    • You’re aware that your frame is on the smaller size than a typical “plus size” block, or you’re petite.
    • The waist and hip are generally a bit too big for you
    • The darts are generally a bit too low for you
    • The bodices tend to be too short-waisted for you

Which size range should I buy if I grade between sizes?

The overlap between the two size ranges means that most sewists should be fine, even if you grade between sizes. For instance, if you’re a 16 C/D bust to a 12 waist and hip, then you could buy either. If you’re a 12 G/H to an 18 waist and hip, you would want to buy the 12 – 32 range. If you’re a 12 G/H to a 10 waist and hip, you’d want to buy the 0 – 16 range.

If you have measurements that go across the 12 – 16 range – for instance, you’re a 10 G/H bust with an 18 hip, then we would recommend picking the size range that matches your bust, and then grading up (or down) appropriately. As the two size ranges were developed on different blocks, it’s not possible to grade between sizes across the two patterns.

Cashmerette 0 - 32 size range
Sarah is wearing the Appleton Dress in the 12-32 size range.

Differences between the size ranges

How do the size ranges differ?

There will be some variation for each pattern, but broadly speaking, the 0 – 16 range differs from the 12 – 32 range in the following ways:

  • The bust darts are slightly higher
  • There is less ease at the waist and hip
  • The waists are slightly lower (i.e. less short-waisted)
  • The front lengths are slightly shorter
  • In some cases, the side seams are slightly straighter.
Cashmerette 0 - 32 size range
Jenny is wearing the Appleton Dress in the 12-32 size range.

How we developed the new size range

How did you develop & grade the new size ranges?

Unfortunately (because it would save a lot of time and money!) it’s not possible to simply grade down to develop a new size range. The further that a pattern is graded from its base size, the more distorted it becomes. You know the issue with low-quality plus size patterns that have huge shoulders and long arms? That’s what’s happening there! It’s inevitable that there will be *some* distortion as you move away from a block, but the best practice is to have one block for a larger size range and one block for a smaller size range, and go from there.

We decided to go with a size 8 base size for our new 0 – 16 size range. Luckily for us, one of our team is also this size, so it made the initial fitting much more convenient! We developed both woven and knit garments from our existing range in these sizes, and then tweaked them to make sure that the proportions worked well, while they continued to be recognisably the “same” garment as from our existing size range. This required a LOT of work! Although you may hear a lot from pattern designers that designing for plus sizes is So Hard, for us it was just the opposite – we are not used to drafting and fitting for smaller sizes! But, after many, many (many!) months, we got there.

How did you test the new size ranges?

We advertised last year for new testers in our full size range, and got lots of applicants. Testing of the first three existing patterns to be expanded was done in parallel, and in some cases (especially for the knit ones), we were able to get to a great fit quickly. In other cases (*ahem* wovens) it was much trickier – in fact, it took 4 (paid!) pattern testing rounds to finesse. But it’s well worth it for a great fitting pattern.

Cashmerette 0 - 32 size range

Other questions

I already bought an existing pattern in 12 – 32 – can I get the 0 – 16 pattern too?

Yes! If you think that you would benefit from the smaller size range in a pattern you already bought in our 12 – 32 size range, email us with your order info or proof of purchase and we will send you the smaller size range in PDF for free. Please note, this only applies to existing patterns which are being expanded, and not new launches.

Are you going to update all your existing patterns to come in both size ranges?

We are planning to update and launch our most popular existing Cashmerette patterns in the new size range. Have a particular fave you want to see smaller? Email us at hello@cashmerette.com and let us know!

Will all new patterns be in both size ranges in the future?

Yes they will! We have one future pattern coming out in 12 – 32 only (the new blazer), but after that, all our new patterns will launch in the full 0 – 32 range.

I don’t want to see the smaller size range from Cashmerette – how can I make that happen?

We totally understand that not everyone in our existing size range wants to also see images of smaller models or sewists, or hear about new 0 – 16 launches. If that’s you, you have several options to opt-out:

  • On our website, choose “12 – 32” patterns on the filters, and you’ll only see patterns in your size.
  • If you’re a newsletter subscriber, let us know which size range you’d like to see by emailing us at hello@cashmerette.com. If you’re just joining the newsletter list now, you’ll be asked to select when you get your first email.
  • On Instagram, follow us at at @cashmerette_12to32 and you’ll only see images (models or sewists) of people in our 12 – 32 range.
  • On Facebook, join our Cashmerette Patterns Community Group (Size 12 to 32).

If you have any other thoughts or questions about this new expansion, I’d love to hear!

15 thoughts on “Introduction to Our New 0 – 32 Size Range

  1. Tami says:

    When will the Ames Jeans be in size 32?
    I also have the another pattern for a princess cut shirt that I don’t see on your website any longer.

    1. They will be launched in the next 2 months!
      We haven’t removed any patterns from the website – do you mean the Harrison Shirt? Right now, that’s planned for 2022, but our plans change quite a lot so could be sooner 🙂

  2. Howar says:

    A great idea. I am dying to have the fuller cardigan in your new size range. I have looked and looked for a v neck cardigan with raglan sleeves – so hard to find. Will try to be patient.

  3. Sue Nash says:

    Thank you so much! Am so excited – I make your patterns for my daughter and have been itching to make a Harrison shirt or the Lenox shirtdress for myself – I have to do so many alterations to ordinary patterns because of my large bust. Thank you again! x

  4. Brenda Everett says:

    I’m so excited for this! I can’t wait for the Harrison shirt. I think I would wear that soooo much! Thanks!

  5. Molly Vigo says:

    I’m THRILLED about the new size range – thank you, thank you, thank you! Two things:

    1) Can you give some idea of the release timeline for the 0-12 patterns? I’m eager to get started, and tying to weigh whether to buy the 12-28 now and learn to regrade, or wait for the 0-12s.

    2) Another vote for the Harrison shirt or Lenox shirtdress! The prospect have having a tailored shirt or dress that fits has me a little teary.

    Thanks, Team Cashmerette!

    1. Nothing’s set in stone yet, but we hope to launch 3 to 4 existing patterns in our new size range this year, as well as the upcoming new ones coming in the full size range.

      1. Molly Vigo says:

        Amazing. Thank you!

  6. Lindsie says:

    I’ve long been an admirer of your patterns and your ethos, but was never quite in your size range. I’m BESIDE MYSELF with excitement about this. I’m pretty right around your 6-8 range, but with big boobs (I’ll probably do your 10G/H and grade down for the rest of the fit), and it’s sooooo hard to find patterns that take curves into account. And even other designers that do cup sizes often only go up to a D. I know I can do an FBA, but I don’t enjoy the process, and I appreciate you and other designers who save me from having to do it! THANK YOU!

  7. A says:

    I’m so excited about this! I’ve wanted to learn how to make my own clothes for awhile but always got intimidated by the amount of adjustments I’d have to learn to do in addition to just learning how to make clothes! And then I found you! Fortunately I saw pretty soon after I clicked on your site that you were planning to make smaller sizes and suddenly there was hope for my under 5 foot, over G cupped, tiny shouldered body! I finally feel like the entry to learning how to make clothes for myself isn’t massively steap! Thanks!

  8. etarnove says:

    This is so exciting! I’m a narrow shouldered 12 with big boobs. I may have to try the new lower size range.

  9. Caro says:

    When will you make the Ames Jeans in 0-32 ?
    It will fit for 3 of us at home…, more than the others size !

  10. L says:

    Can’t wait for the Fuller in the new range! I really *need* to sew up a cardigan, and have had my eye on this for quite some time 🙂

  11. Pok says:

    It says that 0-16 may be better for you if “The bodices tend to be too short-waisted for you (in 12-32 range)”.

    This is confusing to me, because I am short waisted normally, and all the other examples given for why 0-16 might be better suited to me than 12-32 describe me.

    I would expect that if 12-32 is too short-waisted, it would have a shorter back length than 0-16 in corresponding sizes. But that confuses me why that would be the case, and I found some back length measurements on https://blog.cashmerette.com/2024/02/meet-the-wyman-dress-sloper.html that indicate the opposite. 0-16’s size 16 has a 14″ back length, and the 12-32’s 16 has a 14.75″ back length.

    So am I misunderstanding what short-waisted means here, because the rest of the torso’s proportions can vary?

    For reference, I am 5’3″, high bust 39″, full bust 41.5″, underbust 31″, waist 32″, hips 42″ and normally a european 30H. So I think that I fall in the range where it’s a bit confusing, because my breast roots start so high. (There was a comment from Jenny somewhere where the determination is a bit more difficult on some petite busty people).

    1. Pok says:

      And I just saw this “We discovered the need to move the waistline down (smaller people tend to have lower waists than bigger people)”

      So the back length is shorter for the smaller range, but the waist is still proportionally lower?

Let me know what you think!