Today we’re going tackle one of the most common fitting challenges: the bust! Plus size women are disproportionately likely to have a large bust, and yet… most patterns are drafted for a B or C at best. Of course, you can always use Cashmerette Patterns – they go up to an H cup! – but what should you do when you really want to make another pattern that doesn’t go up so far?
Online fitting workshop
The first resource I’d recommend is our Fitting for Curves online workshop – and you can get 25% off with code EDUCATIONWEEK until Aug 31st, 2017. If you’re a visual learner, and like more explanation of the “whys” in alterations, this is for you! The workshop includes 7 lessons just about bust adjustments (along with lessons on other body areas):
- How to figure out if you need bust adjustments and how to measure yourself
- Full Bust Adjustments on a 2 dart and 1 dart bodice
- Full Bust Adjustments on a dartless bodice
- Full Bust Adjustments on a princess seamed bodice
- Full Bust Adjustments on a knit bodice
- How to raise or lower darts
- How to split and rotate darts
Tutorials
In addition, here is a round up of tutorials from Cashmerette and the Curvy Sewing Collective which are a good introduction to the world of bust adjustments:
- How to do a Full Bust Adjustment on a one darted top, and on a no-darted knit top
- How to do a Full Bust Adjustment and add a dart on a dartless woven dress
- Princess Seams: An FBA for Large Busts
- Large FBA Issues: Dealing with the Big Honkin’ Dart
- Large FBA Solutions: The Y-Dart FBA
- Large FBA Soultions: Dart Splitting and Rotation
- How to Retrofit a FBA in a Knit T-shirt
- How to convert a darted bodice into princess seams
- How to change the height of a bust dart
Are there any other bust fitting tips or techniques you’d like to learn? We’re always looking for new opportunities to teach on the blog!
Really appreciate the advice. Its not only plus size ladies with bigger busts, some of us are slimline but ‘blessed’ with really big cahooners too!