We’re making great progress on our Webster Tops & Dresses! Today, we’ll be sewing the side and back seams and hemming the lower edge. On Friday, in our final installment, we’ll be securing the straps and facings to finish our Websters.
First, let’s sew the side seams. This step is essentially the same if you’re making the top or the dress, but if you’re making the top, you won’t need to worry about lining up the hem band seams.
Pin one side seam with front and back pieces right sides together, matching notches, facing seams, and hem band seams if you’re making the dress. Sew, finish the seam allowance, and press towards the back. After you finish the seam, press the facing down to the inside of the shell, wrong sides together, over a ham.
Repeat this step with the other side seam and the back seam. When pinning and sewing the back seam, make sure to pivot at the facing seam allowance in order to get a sharp V at the center back. Press the seam allowance to once side and give the whole shell a good press.
We’re going to go slightly out of order now and hem our Websters so we can just do a few finishing touches next time. If you are using silk or another slippery fabric, the easiest first step is to sew a line of stitching 1/4″ from the bottom edge. This will serve as a guide when folding and pressing and also creates a line of punctures that can help the fabric fold cleanly.
Press the whole bottom edge up by 1/4″. Then press the bottom edge up by another 1/2″ and secure using pins or Wonder Tape, which would be our recommendation. Topstitch the hem from the right side at a scant 1/2″, making sure to catch all of the layers underneath. Give the hem a good final press and make sure you maintained the curve.
That’s it for today! Next time, we’ll finish our Websters! Make sure to share your makes with us using #WebsterTop or #WebsterDress!