Grading Beween Sizes

Top or Dress with Back Princess Seams

In this section, we’ll look at how to grade between sizes on a top or dress with back princess seams. This section applies to the the back of view B of the Springfield Top. You’ll make the changes in this section along with this post.

Always retake your measurements before starting each project. Make sure you’re wearing the type of bra you’ll be most likely to wear with the garment and take your waist and hip measurements while both standing up and sitting down to make sure you have sufficient wearing ease in your garment. 

Let’s take a look at the Springfield Top. Let’s say you have measurements of 45″at the full bust, 38″at the waist and 52″at the hip.

If you look at the body measurement chart, you’ll see your bust would fall in the 16 E/F, your waist would fall in the 18, and your hips would fall in the 22.

Because there are multiple pieces with the princess seam on the back, you’ll need to be sure to grade each piece from the 16 at the bust to the 18 at the waist and the 22 at the hips. PAY CAREFUL ATTENTION TO THE SIZE LINES! This can be a bit tricky here. The way the pieces are stacked means on one side, the 12 is the innermost line while on the other side of the piece it’s the outermost line. Here’s what each of the pieces on the back would look like graded. The yoke will be cut in the straight size 16.

Other things to consider:

  • The yoke, neckline facing, and armhole facing will all be cut in the bust size.
  • Don’t forget to grade your front piece to the same sizes as described in this post.

Back to Grading Between Sizes home