How to grade between sizes on the Roslindale Jumpsuit

When sewing your own jumpsuit, it’s important that it fits you at the bust, waist, AND hip—but most of us are not the same size in all three places! That’s the magic of grading between sizes: you can create your own custom size that’s just right for you.

Today we’re showing you how to grade between sizes on our new woven jumpsuit pattern, the Roslindale Jumpsuit.

At last, a chic woven jumpsuit that actually fits you everywhere! The Cashmerette Club Roslindale Jumpsuit was designed from the start for curves, with thoughtful shaping through the bust, waist, and hips so you get a beautiful fit from top to bottom. This modern one-piece features release pleats providing bust shaping in cups C-H, a crisp collar, and a front button placket that transitions to a hidden zip fly. Wide legs, a waist tie, and grown-on cap sleeves create a fresh, relaxed silhouette—and of course, there are pockets.

Grading the Waistline of the Roslindale’s Bodice

For each size that you need to grade, you will need to add or remove 2” (5 cm) to the waistline.

Because there are effectively four areas in which we will be working (front left side, front right side, back left side, and back right side), that means that you need to add/remove a quarter of the total amount—½” (12 mm)—to/from each pattern piece per size that you need to grade.

As we go through the grading steps below, we’ll be using two examples:

Example: grading 1 size down

• Measurements: 49” (124 cm) bust, 38” (97 cm) waist
• Sizes: 20 E/F bust to 18 waist
• Grading: remove ½” (12 mm) from each pattern piece at the waistline

Example: grading 2 sizes up

• Measurements: 53” (135 cm) bust, 48” (122 cm) waist
• Sizes: 24 E/F bust to 28 waist
• Grading: add 1” (2.5 cm) to each pattern piece at the waistline

Grading the Back Bodice

On the back bodice pattern piece, you can use the waist darts for grading. The back darts are 1.5” (3.8 cm) wide at the waistline, so if you need to grade less than 1.5” (3.8 cm) per pattern piece (3 sizes or less) you can just make the back dart smaller/larger by the amount required.

Example: grading 1 size down

Remove ½” (12 mm) from each pattern piece at the waistline. That means moving each dart leg OUT by ¼” (6 mm).

Example: grading 2 sizes up

Add 1” (2.5 cm) to each pattern piece at the waistline. That means moving each dart leg IN by ½” (12 mm).

If you need to grade up more than 3 sizes, you can eliminate the back dart entirely (that is 3 sizes) and then add an additional ½” (12 mm) to the waistline at the side seam for each additional size.

For example, if you need to grade the waist up by 4 sizes, eliminate the waist dart and then add ½” (12 mm) to the waistline at the side seam.

Grading the Front Bodice

You are now going to do the same thing on the front bodice, but with the pleats rather than darts.  Remember to do any full bust adjustment or small bust adjustment you require first.

Because there are two pleats on each front, you will split the amount you need to add/remove to the pleats in half.

Example: grading 1 size down

Remove ½” (12 mm) from each pattern piece at the waistline.  Because there are two pleats by will adjust each pleat by ¼” (6 mm) – That means moving both outer pleat legs OUT by ¼” (6 mm) each. Do not adjust the inner dart legs.

Example: grading 2 sizes up

Add 1” (2.5 cm) to each pattern piece at the waistline. Because there are two pleats, we will adjust each pleat by ½” (12 mm) – That means moving both outer pleat legs IN by 1/2” (12 mm) each. Do not adjust the inner dart legs.

If you need to grade up by more than two sizes, modify the front darts as above for two sizes, then add ½” (12 mm) to the waistline at the side seam for each additional size.

For example, if you need to grade the waist up by 4 sizes, adjust the outer pleat legs in by ½” (12 mm) as shown above (2 sizes), then add 1” (2.5 cm) to the waistline at the side seam (2 sizes).

Grading the Waistline of the Roslindale’s Legs

The legs can then the graded in a similar manner, starting with the hip measurements and grading in/out for the waist.

Again there are effectively four areas in which we will be working (front left side, front right side, back left side, and back right side), that means that you need to add/remove a quarter of the total amount—½” (12 mm)—to/from each pattern piece per size that you need to grade.

For each size that you need to grade, you will need to add or remove 2” (5 cm) to the waistline.

We’ll now be using these two examples:

Example: grading 1 size down

• Measurements: 38” (97 cm) waist and a 50” (127 cm hip)
• Sizes: 20 at the hip to an 18 at the waist
• Grading: remove ½” (12 mm) from each pattern piece at the waistline

Example: grading 2 sizes up

• Measurements: 48” (122 cm) waist and a 54” (137 cm) hip
• Sizes: 24 hip to a 28 waist
• Grading: add 1” (2.5 cm) to each pattern piece at the waistline

Grading the Back Legs

On the back legs pattern piece, you can use the waist darts for grading. The back darts are 1.5” (3.8 cm) wide at the waistline, so if you need to grade less than 1.5” (3.8 cm) per pattern piece (3 sizes or less) you can just make the back dart smaller/larger by the amount required.

Example: grading down 1 size

Remove ½” (12 mm) from each pattern piece at the waistline. That means moving each dart leg OUT by
¼” (6 mm).

Example: grading up 2 sizes

Add 1” (2.5 cm) to each pattern piece. That means moving each dart leg IN by ½” (12 mm).

If you need to grade up more than 3 sizes, you can eliminate the back dart entirely (that is 3 sizes) and then add an additional ½” (12 mm) to the waistline at the side seam, for each additional size.

For example, if you need to grade the waist up by 4 sizes, eliminate the waist dart and then add ½” (12 mm) to the waistline at the side seam.

Grading the Front Legs

Grading of the front legs will need to be done at the side seams as there are no darts or pleats but first you will need to add the pocket pieces to the front legs.

Align the angled edge of the front pocket with the angled edge of the front legs.

Now align the outer edge of the lower pocket with the outer edge of the front pocket.

We will now work with the three layers joined together.

Example: grading 1 size down

Remove ½” (12 mm) from each pattern piece at the waistline.  You will do this at the side seam as shown.

Example: grading 2 sizes up

Add 1” (2.5 cm) to each pattern piece. You will do this at the side seam as shown.

Matching waistlines

After grading the bodice and legs you will want to double check that the length of the waistlines are still the same.

Measure the waistline, excluding any darts or pleats and check that:

• The front bodice waistline matches the front leg waistline
• The back bodice waistline matches the back leg waistline

Then you’re all done with grading and ready to sew up your Roslindale!