How to Do a Rounded Upper Back Adjustment

Is your back neckline sticking out or your front neckline riding up and choking you? Learn how to do a rounded upper back adjustment with this simple pattern fix.

A rounded upper back is incredibly common these days—thanks to all those hours we spend hunched over computers and phones, most of us have developed one to some degree. The good news is it’s an easy fix: you just need to add a bit more length to the upper back, along with some extra curve.

How to Tell If You Need a Rounded Upper Back Adjustment

• The back neckline is sticking out from the back of your neck rather than sitting against it
• The front neckline is riding up and feels like it’s choking you

Measuring How Much to Adjust By

Measure the length of your back from where the neckline should sit down to your waist. Then measure the same distance on the pattern piece and compare the two numbers—the difference is how much length you need to add.

Making Your Rounded Upper Back Adjustment

Step 1: Mark the seam allowance around the upper part of the back pattern piece. Draw a horizontal line across the piece about 3 – 4 inches (8 – 10 cm) down from the center back neck, so that it goes through the upper armscye—this is Line 1. Then draw a diagonal line from the back neckline down to Line 1 (the exact angle isn’t important)—this is Line 2.

Note: this will create a neckline dart in a future step. If you would prefer to have a shoulder dart, draw line 2 to the middle of the shoulder instead.

Step 2: Cut along Line 1, starting at the center back and ending at the armscye seam allowance. Snip into the seam allowance from the other side to form a small hinge. Swing the upper piece up, creating a gap at the center back that equals the length you need to add.

Step 3: Cut down Line 2, starting at the neckline and ending just before Line 1 to form a small hinge. Swing the pieces open so that the center back is aligned again and the horizontal gap at Line 1 has parallel sides. As you do this, a dart will open up at the neckline.

Step 4: Trace your pattern piece, adding a dart at the neckline where the opening has been created.

A Note for Knit Fabrics

This adjustment adds a dart at the back neckline to create more curve to match your body. But if you’re making a knit garment and would rather skip the sewn dart, you can fold it out on your pattern piece instead: pinch the dart closed as if it were sewn and flatten it down. It won’t function exactly like a dart, but the stretch in knit fabric will compensate and you’ll still get a good result.

You Did It!

No more necklines gaping at the back or choking you at the front! Your garment will now follow the curve of your upper back beautifully.

Want to dive deeper into fitting? This adjustment and many more are covered in detail in “Ahead of the Curve,” our best-selling book on fitting for curves. And if you’d like in-depth video tutorials that go much deeper, check out Cashmerette Club‘s library of fitting masterclasses.