How to lengthen and shorten sewing patterns

If there’s one fitting adjustment that can make a massive difference to how your handmade clothes look and feel, it’s lengthening and shortening. The great news? It’s also one of the easiest adjustments to make. Whether you’re adjusting your bodice to hit just right or your skirt to fall at the perfect length, this is a skill that will serve you well on pattern after pattern.

Why Height Alone Doesn’t Tell the Whole Story

Here’s something that trips up a lot of sewists: you can’t just compare your height to the height the pattern’s drafted for and call it a day. That’s because two people of the same height can have completely different proportions.

Picture this: someone who’s 5’2″ (157 cm) might assume they need to shorten everything. But what if they have a longer torso and shorter legs? In that case, the bodice might fit perfectly as-is—no shortening needed. On the flip side, someone who’s 5’10” (178 cm) might have a shorter torso relative to their height. They might actually need to shorten the bodice while lengthening the skirt significantly.

The takeaway? Focus on your individual body proportions rather than just your overall height. Your torso length and leg length are what really matter here.

How to Know If You Need to Adjust Length

There are a few tried-and-true ways to figure out whether you need to add or remove length from your pattern pieces:

Make a muslin (toile/test garment). There’s no substitute for seeing how a garment actually fits on your body. A quick muslin in inexpensive fabric that matches the type of fabric of your final garment will show you exactly where adjustments are needed.

Compare pattern pieces to your measurements. Measure the length of key pattern pieces (bodice front, bodice back, skirt) – remembering to exclude seam allowances – and compare them to your own vertical body measurements. This gives you a clear picture of where you might be longer or shorter than the pattern expects.

Check the finished garment measurements. Some patterns include center back length measurements. Compare this to your own back length measurement to see if adjustments are needed.

Here’s a helpful tip: pattern companies tend to draft for consistent proportions across all their designs. So once you figure out that you need to, say, shorten bodices by one inch (2.5 cm) on Cashmerette patterns, you’ll likely need to do that same adjustment on all our patterns. That’s one less thing to figure out each time!

Finding (or Creating) Your Lengthen/Shorten Lines

Most well-drafted patterns include lengthen/shorten lines printed right on the pattern pieces. These lines are strategically placed at points that won’t interfere with design elements like darts or bust shaping.

If your pattern doesn’t have these lines marked, or you want to lengthen/shorten at other locations, you can add them yourself. On a bodice, place your line below the bust darts or fullness. On lower-body pieces like skirts or trousers, good spots include across the hip area, upper thigh, or calf.

One important note: if you need to add or remove a significant amount of length, it’s better to distribute that change across multiple points rather than making one big adjustment in a single spot. This helps preserve the garment’s intended proportions and shape.

How to Lengthen a Pattern Piece

Step 1. Draw a vertical line on your pattern piece that crosses through the lengthen/shorten line at a 90 degree angle. This will be your guide for keeping everything aligned.

Step 2. On a separate piece of paper, draw two parallel horizontal lines spaced apart by the amount you want to add. (Need to add 1 inch/2.5 cm? Draw your lines 1 inch/2.5 cm apart.)

Step 3. Cut your pattern piece along the lengthen/shorten line. Place the two halves on your paper, lining up with the parallel lines and using a ruler to make sure your vertical guide line stays perfectly straight. Tape everything together.

Step 4. Redraw the side edges to create smooth, continuous lines connecting the upper and lower sections. Trim off the excess paper, and you’ve got your new, lengthened pattern piece.

How to Shorten a Pattern Piece

Step 1. Just like lengthening, start by drawing a vertical guide line that crosses through your lengthen/shorten line at a 90 degree angle.

Step 2. Draw two parallel lines on your pattern, evenly spaced above and below the lengthen/shorten line. The distance between them should equal the amount you want to remove.

Step 3. Cut along both parallel lines and remove the strip of paper in between. Bring the top and bottom sections together, using your vertical guide to keep everything aligned. Tape in place, smooth out the edges, and trim any excess paper.

You’ve Got This!

Lengthening and shortening might sound fiddly, but once you’ve done it a few times, it becomes second nature. It’s one of those adjustments that can take a garment from “almost there” to “fits like a dream.” And remember—your body’s proportions are uniquely yours, so embrace the adjustments that help your handmade wardrobe fit beautifully.