How to Choose Between Cashmerette’s Two Size Ranges

Cashmerette patterns come in sizes 0-32—that’s a lot of sizes! But you might have noticed that our patterns are split into two ranges: 0-16 and 12-32. So which one is right for you to use? Let’s break it down.

Why Two Size Ranges?

You might wonder why we don’t just put all the sizes into one pattern. The reason is that good fit requires different blocks (base set of measurements and assumptions about the body) for different size ranges. When you grade a pattern too far from its base size, proportions start to distort—that’s why so many plus size patterns from other companies end up with weirdly huge shoulders and overly long arms.

To avoid this, we developed the 0-16 range on a separate block from our original 12-32 range, each optimized for the bodies in that range. Both size ranges are included automatically with our PDF patterns, and if you purchase a print pattern in one size range you’ll get the full size range PDF pattern for free, too.

As they are drafted differently, it isn’t possible to grade between the ranges (such as use a 10 bust from the 0-16 range with a 20 hip from the 12-32 range). For that reason, there is an overlap at sizes 12-16 to try to ensure that most sewists have all the sizes they need in a single range. However, if that isn’t the case for you, read on!

The Grafton Dress, Top & Dress pattern comes in sizes 0-32. Rachel (left) is wearing a size 18 G/H from the 12-32 range; Rae (middle) is wearing a size 24 E/F graded to a 30 waist and 26 hip from the 12-32 range; Jan Marie is wearing a size 6 from the 0-16 size range.

How to Choose Your Size Range

First, measure yourself and use our Size Calculator to find your sizes. Then use the guidance below to pick your range.

If All Your Measurements Fall Within One Range

This is the simplest scenario. If your bust, waist, and hip measurements all fall within the 0-16 range, buy 0-16. If they all fall within 12-32, buy 12-32. Done!

If Your Measurements Fall in the 12-16 Overlap

If your measurements are all between sizes 12 and 16, you could technically use either size range.

While there is some variation from pattern to pattern, typically the 0-16 range differs from the 12-32 range in the following ways:

• The bust darts are slightly higher
• There is less ease at the waist and hip (this varies by pattern)
• The waists are slightly lower (i.e. less short-waisted)
• The front lengths are slightly shorter
• In some cases, the side seams are slightly straighter.

If you’ve already made Cashmerette in sizes 12-32 before and they fit you well, stick with that range! There’s no need to change.

If, however, your frame is on the smaller side, you are petite, bust darts tend to be too low, and/or bodices tend to be too short-waisted, try the 0-16!

Remember, you get both ranges when you purchase a pattern, so you can always experiment with your size in both ranges.

If Your Measurements Span Beyond the Overlap

Sometimes measurements cross the boundary between ranges—for example, you may have a size 10 bust with size 20 hips, or a size 8 waist with a size 18 bust. However, because the two size ranges are built on different blocks, you cannot grade between sizes across the two patterns. The 12-16 sizes in each range don’t match up exactly, so stick within one range for any single garment.

Therefore, our recommendation is to choose the range that matches your bust measurement, then grade out (or in) at the waist and hips as needed, or do a pattern adjustment.

Why the bust? Because the upper body is the trickiest area to adjust, involving darts, armholes, and shoulder slopes. It’s much easier to grade at the waist and hip than to restructure the bust area.

So if you’re a 10 G/H bust with size 18 hips, you’d start with the 0-16 range and grade out at the hips from the size 16.

If you’re an 18 bust with a 12 waist, you’d use 12-32 and grade in at the waist. You can learn how to grade up or down here.

An alternative approach is to do a pattern adjustment rather than grading up or down. For instance, in the case of being a 10 G/H bust with size 18 hips, if you are mostly bigger in the bum area, you could start with the size 16 hip and do a full bum adjustment to add what you need.

The Meriam Trousers pattern comes in sizes 0-32.

From left to right: Michelle is wearing a size 24 graded to a 22 hip from the 12-32 range, Dhara is wearing a size 4 graded to a 0 hip from the 0-16 range, Jan Marie is wearing a size 6 graded to an 8 hip from the 0-16 range, and Jenny is wearing a size 20 from the 12-32 range.

Still Not Sure?

If you’re on the fence, start with whichever range feels closest to your overall proportions. And remember—if it doesn’t work out, you already have the other size range to try. We want you to end up with patterns that fit beautifully, and we’re happy to help you get there.

Need more help? No problem! Contact us and we’ll be happy to get you in the right size range for you.