Let’s talk about snaps! These small but versatile fasteners are perfect whenever you need to secure two pieces of fabric together—offering a great alternative to buttons, zippers, or Velcro. And guess what? They’re not as tricky as they might seem.

If you’re new to working with snaps, don’t worry—we’ll cover everything you need to know, from the types of snaps and tools to the installation process. Whether you’re adding snaps to your Vinton Pants, Canton Moto Jacket, or another sewing pattern, this guide will give you the clarity and confidence to get it right.

(Pssst… don’t have your Vinton Pants yet? You can get them with Cashmerette Club All Access membership—check out all the amazing benefits and sign up here!)

Jump to section

• Types of snaps
• Snap installation tools
• How to install snaps
  • Attaching a plastic snap using a snap press
  • Attaching a spring snap using a snap press
  • Attaching a ring snap using a handheld die and anvil
  • Attaching an open-ring prong snap using the supplied plastic tool
  • Attaching a pearl ring prong snap using a spool of thread and hammer

Types of snaps

There are many different types of snaps you can choose from:

• Ring snaps
• Spring snaps
• Open-ring or prong snaps
• Plastic snaps
• Sew-on snaps

The best snap type for a particular sewing project depends on your fabric and garment. Let’s take a closer look.

Ring snaps

These snaps are also known as heavy duty snaps, utility snaps, dome snaps, or line snaps. They have a ring-shaped socket that locks onto a stud, making them perfect for when you need a secure fastening. You’ll usually find them used in garment sewing on heavier fabrics, like coats or pants.

Spring snaps

Compared to ring snaps, spring snaps are generally easier to snap together and apart. They also have a slightly lower profile than ring snaps. Inside the socket is a small spring that grips the stud when closed. These are ideal for most mid-weight garment applications like vests and shirts.

Open-ring or prong snaps

Instead of a cap with a shank, this style of snap has five little triangular prongs that fit into a ring on the outside of the garment. These snaps have a very low profile, making them a good choice for thinner light-weight fabrics, often found on baby’s clothing. You can also find a variation of these snaps with a pearl covering for a decorative touch.

Plastic snaps

Made from plastic, these snaps come in a range of colors, shapes, and styles. While they may not be as secure as spring or ring snaps, they are smaller and lighter, making them ideal for light- to mid-weight fabrics like shirts.

Sew-on snaps

As the name suggests, these snaps are hand-sewn onto a garment. Since they’re hidden on the inside, they’re perfect whenever you need an invisible closure.

Anatomy of a snap

Ring snaps, spring snaps, open-ring snaps, and plastic snaps typically consist of four pieces—two for each side of the snap.

• Cap: The decorative part of the snap that’s visible on the outside of your project.
• Receptacle/Socket: Attaches to the back of the cap and forms the female part of the snap.
• Stud: The male part of the snap that fits into the receptacle when the snap is closed.
• Post: The back side of the stud. For plastic and ring snaps, this is usually a second cap piece.

On the other hand, sew-on snaps consist of only the stud and receptacle (pictured below, respectively) without any backing pieces.

Snap installation tools

Apart from sew-on snaps, which only require a hand needle and thread, most snaps need specialized tools for installation. The exact tool you need depends on the type of snap you’re using. In general, you’ll need a die and anvil that match your snap’s size and shape, as well as something to apply pressure (like a hammer).

Keep in mind that each type and size of snap requires its own specific tools—there’s no one-size-fits-all solution for snap tools. You can often find snap sets for sale that include these tools in the package:

Or, you can buy the required tool separately. To select the right installation tool, check the packaging of your snaps. It should clearly indicate which tool is required for that specific type.

Some snap sets also include an all-in-one plastic tool or a set of simple pliers that are designed to work with that specific snap. These are great for one-off applications of snaps.

If you plan on using a lot of snaps, you might consider investing in a snap press (either handheld or tabletop), which makes application easier and more secure.

If you do invest in a snap press, you’ll also need the correct dies for your snap’s size and type. Examples of dies are shown below.

Note: For stand presses, you’ll also need to purchase an adaptor to fit the standard dies.

Ring snap dies

Spring snap dies

Open-ring/pearl snap dies

Plastic snap dies

Other tools

Let’s explore other tools you might need for snap installation.

Marking tools

You’ll need a marking tool, such as tailor’s chalk, a fabric pen, or a marker, to mark the snap locations. We recommend marking all the spots where the snaps will be visible on the outside of the garment. Install the cap and receptacle in these locations first, then use them as guides to mark where you’ll place the stud and post.

Tools to create a hole in the fabric

When working with plastic, ring, and spring snaps, you’ll need to create a hole in the fabric so the post from the cap or stud can pass through.

For smaller snaps, like plastic ones, you can use an awl (like the one pictured below) to make the hole. Awls come in a variety of shank diameters. Some awls have a thin shank throughout and are suitable only for making small holes. Others gradually widen along the shank, allowing you to control the hole size by how far you press the fabric up the awl.

For larger snaps (e.g. ring snaps and spring snaps), sometimes it’s easier to cut a small hole (approximately 2.5mm) in your fabric with something like a leather hole punch, or a hole punch and hammer.

If you’re working with a snap press, you can use a hole-cutting die that attaches to the press and cuts the required hole directly in your fabric.

Keep in mind that these tools will cut through the threads in your fabric, rather than simply pushing them aside. If your fabric is prone to fraying, you may want to use an awl instead.

Note: For open-ring snaps, you don’t need to create a hole—the prongs on the cap are self-piercing.

How to install snaps

Since snaps and installation tools come in so many forms, we’ve included a number of examples that show how each one works.

Example 1: Attaching a plastic snap using a snap press

It’s important to note that plastic snaps can only be attached using a snap press.

Let’s start by looking at the pieces you’ll need for a plastic snap. From left to right: one cap (here, it’s a star-shaped cap instead of the standard round one), the receptacle, the stud, and a second star-shaped cap (which acts as the post).

When using a snap press, the first step is to set it up with the correct dies.

For plastic snaps, you only need two dies: one for the receptacle and one for the stud. The larger die, with the rounded indent and smooth shank, goes at the bottom of the snap press, while the smaller die with the threaded shank fits in the top.

Slide the shank of the larger die into the hole at the bottom of the press.

Use a small flathead screwdriver (usually included with your snap press) to secure the die in place.

The smaller die has a screw thread on the shank. Screw it into the thread at the top of the press.

Your snap press is now set up to use the plastic snaps.

Mark the location of the snaps on one side of your garment. In this example, we’re adding snaps to a shirt, so the visible part of the snap will be on the outside of the right-hand side of the garment.

Make a hole in your fabric at the first marked location. For plastic snaps, you can use a simple awl to create the hole, as it doesn’t need to be very large.

Place one cap through the hole in the fabric, so that the cap is on the outside of the garment.

From the wrong side of the fabric, you’ll see the post protruding through.

Place the receptacle over the post.

Normally, we’d pick up this entire assembly and place it into the snap press, but for this demonstration, we’ll show you where each piece goes.

The cap fits inside the larger die on the bottom of the press.

Next, place the fabric over the cap so that the post of the cap passes through the hole in the fabric.

Place the receptacle over the post.

Then, the top die presses down onto the receptacle. Squeeze the handles of the snap press together to attach the snap.

The post in the center is pressed flat, securing the receptacle to the cap.

Mark directly beneath the installed snap.

Make a hole where the snap will be installed. Again, here we’re using an awl.

Push the second cap/post through the hole in the fabric. In this example, the two areas to be joined are overlapping so the second cap will be inserted from the wrong side.

Next, place the stud over the post that’s protruding through the fabric.

Place the assembly into the snap press.

Squeeze the handle to apply the required pressure. The post will be pressed flat to secure the cap in place.

Voilà! You can now snap the stud and receptacle together.

Example 2: Attaching a spring snap using a snap press

This time, we’re going to use the same snap press and install a metal spring snap instead. The process is very similar. This process can also be used to install ring snaps, though the dies will look a little different for the ring/heavy duty snaps.

First, set up your snap press with the correct dies. For spring snaps (and ring snaps), you will need four dies: two for the cap and receptacle, and two for the stud and post.

We start by installing the cap and receptacle since these are the visible parts of the snap on the garment. To do this, we’ll set up the snap press with the corresponding dies—one with a smooth shank and the other with a threaded shank.

Slide the smooth shank into the bottom of the snap press.

Use the small screwdriver to secure the die in place.

Next, screw the die with the threaded shank into the top of the snap press.

Your snap press is now set up to install the cap and receptacle of a spring snap.

Mark the location of the snap on one side of your garment.

Make a hole in the fabric in this location. For spring snaps, you typically need a bigger hole than what can be achieved with a small awl. We suggest an awl with a larger diameter (like the one pictured below). Or, you can use a handheld leather hole punch, set to a 2.5mm diameter hole.

Now let’s look at our ring snaps. From left to right: we have the cap, receptacle, stud, and post.

Place the cap through the fabric hole so that the cap is on the outside of the garment.

From the wrong side, you can see the post protruding through the fabric. Place the receptacle over the post.

Now, we’re ready to use our snap press.

The cap fits inside the larger die on the bottom of the press.

Position the fabric over the cap so that the post sticks through the hole, then place the receptacle on top of the post.

Squeeze the handles of the snap press to press the top die down onto the receptacle.

Next, you’ll need to reset the snap press by replacing the current dies with the ones required for the stud and post installation.

Remove the die in the lower part of the press by loosening the screw.

Then, replace it with the other smooth shank die. Tighten the screw to secure the new die in place.

Remove the existing die from the top of the press by unscrewing and replace with the other threaded die.

Your snap press will now look like this.

To mark where the stud will go on the other side of the garment, overlap the two edges and mark the spot directly beneath the receptacle.

Make a hole in the fabric where the snap will be installed. This time, we used a handheld hole punch and a hammer to create the hole. If you’re using these tools, be sure to place a piece of scrap wood underneath the fabric to protect your work surface.

Push the post through the hole in the fabric from the back side.

Then, place the stud over the post that is protruding through the fabric.

Let’s now place the fabric/snap assembly into the snap press. First, position the post over the spike at the bottom of the press.

Then, place the fabric over the top of the post.

Place the stud on top of the post.

Squeeze the handle to apply the required pressure.

Great job—you’ve successfully installed your stud and post!

Example 3: Attaching a ring snap using a handheld die and anvil

For this example, we’re using the die and anvil that go with the Dritz heavy duty snaps. You can use this same exact method to set spring snaps.

First, mark the location of the snap on one side of your garment.

Make a hole in the fabric in this location. We found that the 2.5mm hole-cutting tool worked best for this.

Now let’s look at our ring snaps. From left to right: we have the cap, receptacle, stud, and post.

Place the cap through the hole in the fabric so that the cap is on the outside of the garment.

Flip your fabric over and place the receptacle over the cap’s post.

Next, we need our anvil and die. The anvil has two sides to it. Start with the smooth side facing up.

The cap fits inside the rounded indent of the anvil.

Place the fabric over the cap so that the post protrudes through the fabric, then place the receptacle on top of the post.

Place the die on top of the receptacle with the shaped edge facing down.

Use a hammer applied to the top of the die to secure the receptacle in place.

When inserted correctly, the receptacle will look like this.

Now let’s mark the other side of the garment, where we’ll be attaching the stud. Do this by overlapping the two edges and then marking the opposite side directly underneath the receptacle.

Make a hole in this piece of fabric where the snap will go. The post of the ring snaps is actually larger than the post on the cap so we made a larger hole this time and used the 3mm hole-cutting tool on the rotary cutting tool.

Push the post through the hole in the fabric from the back side and place the assembly on top of the anvil with the indented side of the anvil facing up.

Place the stud over the post that is protruding through the fabric.

Use the die and hammer to secure the stud in place.

You’ve installed your ring snap!

Example 4: Attaching an open-ring prong snap using the supplied plastic tool

For this example, we’re using the plastic tool provided with the open-ring prong snaps.

Open-ring prong snaps require the following four items. From left to right: we have the ring, receptacle, stud, and second ring.

The tool itself has three layers. It also has options for two different sizes of ring snaps. The snaps we have are the larger of the two sizes so we’ll be using the settings closest to the hinge.

Mark the snap’s location on one side of your garment.

For these rings, we don’t need to make a hole in our fabric since the prongs on the ring snap will do that for us. Center the ring over the marking and carefully press the prongs through the fabric.

From the back side of the fabric, you can see the prongs protruding through the fabric.

For this size snap, our marking pencil fits beautifully between the prongs and allows us to press the fabric through as far as possible.

Now we need to place the assembly into the plastic tool. The ring (shown without the fabric here for clarity) will sit in the lower indent in the tool.

This is what it actually looks like with the ring and fabric together.

Close the middle layer of the tool down over the snap.

Place the receptacle on top of the prongs. The receptacle has one side where the inner ring protrudes above the outer ring–the raised side–this side should be facing down in the tool.

Close the tool over the top of the assembly.

And use a hammer applied to the raised circle on the top of the tool to apply the required pressure.

When inserted correctly, the receptacle will look like this.

Now let’s mark the other side of the garment, where we’ll be attaching the stud. Do this by overlapping the two edges and then marking the opposite side directly underneath the receptacle.

Push the second open ring through the fabric from the wrong side.

Place the assembly into the tool with the ring in the lower circle and the fabric over the top.

Lower the middle section of the tool over the fabric.

Place the stud on top of the prongs with the protruding stud facing up.

Close the top of the tool and use a hammer to secure it in place.

Your stud is now installed.

Example 5: Attaching a pearl ring prong snap using a spool of thread and hammer

The last example uses the simplest tools. In this one, we’ll use a spool of thread and a hammer to insert a pearl ring prong snap. This method works for both the open-ring and pearly prong snaps.

The pearl ring prong snaps are very similar to the open-ring prong snaps except that half of the open-ring snap pieces are filled with a pearl button. From the left, we have the pearl ring, receptacle, stud, and second open ring.

Mark the snap’s location of the snap on one side of your garment. In this example, we’re using the fifth marking that we made on the shirt from example 1.

We don’t need to make a hole in our fabric since the prongs on the pearl ring will do that for us. Center the pearl ring over the marking and carefully press the prongs through the fabric.

If possible, use the back end of a pencil to press the fabric through as far as possible.

Place the receptacle on top of the prongs. The receptacle has one side where the inner ring protrudes above the outer ring—the raised side—this side should be facing towards the prongs.

Place the end of the thread spool over the receptacle.

Use a hammer to apply pressure to the top of the spool.

Now let’s mark the other side of the garment, where we’ll be attaching the stud. Do this by overlapping the two edges and then marking the opposite side directly underneath the receptacle. Then, push the second open ring through from the wrong side of the fabric.

Place the stud on top of the prongs with the protruding stud facing up, then place the thread spool on top of the stud. The raised stud should sit inside the hole in the center of the thread spool.

Use your hammer to secure the stud to the open-ring prong snap. Your snap set is installed!

That’s a wrap!

With the right snap installation tools and a little practice, you’ll be installing snaps like a seasoned pro. Whether you’re adding snaps to the Vinton Pants or exploring creative possibilities in other projects, snaps are a smart skill to add to your sewing repertoire.

Looking to grow your sewing confidence even more? Explore our plus-size-first sewing resources at cashmerette.com—happy sewing!