The Auburn Blazer is a blazer sewing pattern designed specifically for a full bust in sizes 12-32 and cup sizes C-H. That means if you’ve got a larger bust you’re well on your way to an amazing fit – but of course, we all have different shape, height and size boobs, so one size doesn’t always fit all! Depending on your proportions and where your bust sits, you may want make some adjustments to make the pattern fit you even better. Today, we’re showing you how to fit the bust of the Auburn Blazer to your body.
Start with the right size
The Auburn Blazer is designed with princess seams and multiple cup sizes for beautiful shaping around a full bust. To get the best fit right out the gate, you’ll want to start by taking your measurements and selecting your size using our handy size calculator, then sewing up a muslin.
If you’re between sizes, you can grade between sizes – however, first, consider whether you’re going to wear your blazer buttoned up or not. If you’re never going to button it, then as long as the shoulder/bust fit is right, you might not need to grade up at the waist/hip if you’re a couple of inches bigger there.
Sewing the Muslin
When it comes to making a blazer, a muslin (toile) is essential! You don’t want to spend a lot of money and time only to discover the fit isn’t quite right. It may seem like a bit of a hassle, but the time spent making a muslin is indeed well spent if it results in a garment you’ll wear for years.
For your muslin, use a less expensive (but similar weight/stretch) fabric and you can take some shortcuts, like skipping the lining and not finishing seams or hems. View B makes for a great muslin, since it omits the pockets, sleeve and hem vents, and uses less fabric overall. That said: if there are construction techniques you’re not familiar with, like the welt pockets or notched collar, you may want to do those on your muslin for practice.
Be sure to transfer over markings from the pattern onto your fabric, particularly the bust apex which we’ll use later in this tutorial to determine the blazer’s bust fit.
Reviewing Your Muslin
Once you’ve sewn up your Auburn Blazer muslin in your size(s) and cup size, try it on. Be sure to wear the undergarments that you would normally wear with this blazer, because different bras can impact how your bust sits, and also over the type of other clothing you’ll be wearing with it. If you’re happy with how the blazer’s bust fits around your bust—fantastic! You can cruise on through to your final blazer, or stick around and read the rest of this post just for fun (that’s everyone’s idea of fun, no?!)
Is the bust not fitting quite like you want it? Click to see our recommendations based on the fit issue you’re noticing:
- The bust is too tight
- The bust is too loose
- The bust apex is too high or too low
- The bust shaping isn’t right
If the overall garment feels too small or too big, you may need a different size – check your measurements in the sizing calculator if you haven’t already.
The Bust is Too Tight
If the blazer is straining at the bust, you will need to add more room in the bust. If you made your muslin using the C/D or E/F cup options, you go up a cup size or two which will give you an additional 1 – 2″ (2.5 – 5 cm) of ease in the bust.
If you’ve used the G/H and you need more room, you’ll want to do an FBA. Check out our step-by-step tutorial on how to do an FBA on a princess seamed bodice.
When doing your FBA, remember to adjust the lining pieces as well as the outer shell pieces. Once you’ve made the adjustment, you can swap in your new fronts into your muslin to check the fit again.
The Bust is Too Loose
If the blazer feels baggy at the bust, you will need to remove some of the bust ease. If you made your muslin using the E/F or G/H cup options, you can go down a cup size or two which will take away 1 – 2″ (2.5 – 5 cm) of ease in the bust.
If you’ve used the C/D and it’s too loose at the bust, you’ll want to do an SBA. Check out our step-by-step tutorial on how to do an SBA on a princess seamed bodice.
When doing your SBA, remember to adjust the lining pieces as well as the outer shell pieces. Once you’ve made the adjustment, you can swap in your new fronts into your muslin to check the fit again.
The Bust Apex is Too High or Too Low
While wearing your blazer muslin, mark your bust apex on the outside of the muslin. This should be the point of your bust that protrudes the most; the bit that would hit first if you were to walk forward into a wall. If you haven’t already, you should also mark the pattern bust apex onto your blazer – it’s the small circle marking on the center front.
If your bust apex is higher or lower than the bust apex of the blazer you’ll want to move the bust apex of the pattern to match yours. That will ensure that the fullness of the bust is where you need it. Here’s a step-by-step tutorial for how to adjust the height of the bust apex.
When making your adjustment, remember to adjust the lining pieces as well as the outer shell pieces. Once you’ve made the adjustment, you can swap in your new fronts into your muslin to check the fit again.
The Bust Shaping Isn’t Right
If there’s enough room in the bust and the apex is in the right spot, but the princess seam doesn’t follow the curve of your bust (perhaps you have boobs that are rounder on top, or more hollow), you can adjust the shaping.
To do this, turn your muslin inside out and pin along the seam, trying it on until it fits well. If it’s too small in any spots, you’ll also need to seam rip and see how much that part spreads.
Once you’ve shaped the seam in a way that suits your bust, transfer those adjustments over to your pattern pieces. Remember to adjust both the outer and lining front pieces.
Need Additional Fitting Assistance?
We’re here to help! You can reach out to us directly with questions at firstname.lastname@example.org.
You can also join our Auburn Blazer Facebook group, where you can get blazer-specific fitting tips from the curvy sewing community and see what others have made with the Auburn Blazer pattern. Let’s get blazer making!