April 20, 2021

How Should the Auburn Blazer Fit?


The Auburn Blazer is here and we’ve got a wealth of resources for you as you embark on your blazer journey- including a sewalong! Today, we’ll discuss how the Auburn ought to fit.

Like all Cashmerette patterns, the Auburn was designed with curvy, full busted sewists in mind. Currently, the Auburn is available in sizes 12-32 and cup sizes C/D, E/F, and G/H. Use our size calculator to get a head start on fit!

This post will be especially helpful if you haven’t made a tailored garment or outerwear before. The Auburn Blazer has layers of interfacing and shoulder pads that will affect the fit of the garment. Make sure to keep these things in mind (and tack in those shoulder pads) while making a muslin or when trying on your garment as you construct it.

Auburn Blazer Fit Details

View A and B of the Auburn have an almost identical fit, with the only major differences being a shorter hemline and absence of a back vent on View B, so we’ll mostly focus on View A in this post.

  • Collar & Lapel
    • The base of the collar should sit at the top of the spine and the lapel should follow the your neck closely as it curves around to the front, without gaping.
  • Shoulder Fit (with shoulder pads)
    • The shoulders should extend slightly past your natural shoulder point (the classic style of a tailored jacket).
    • The shoulder seams should sit balanced on the top of the shoulder, if it doesn’t, you may have to do a forward or back shoulder adjustment. 
    • More Auburn shoulder fitting tips »
  • Bust
    • The princess seam should fit smoothly over the bust, with the blazer apex at your bust apex. 
      • If you find that you need to adjust the level of the fullness of your princess seam, this blog post will show you how!
    • More Auburn bust fitting tips »
  • Back
    • The back of the Auburn should be smooth with no pooling.
    • For View A, the vent should remain closed while you are standing still, but will open when you walk or sit.
  • Sleeve (with shoulder pads)
    • The sleeve should allow your arm to move comfortably— make sure to determine if you should use the standard or full bicep sleeve by checking the measurement charts.
      • If you find you need more ease than the full bicep option, use this tutorial to add width to your sleeve.
    • The sleeve hem should sit just below the wrist bone.
    • More Auburn sleeve fitting tips »
  • Hem/Hip
    • The blazer shoulder skim over the hip without flaring, you may need to grade between sizes to get the perfect bust, waist, and hip fit.
    • The View A hem should hit at the low hip
    • The View B hem should sit at the high hip
    • Make sure to measure your hips while sitting, if you wish to sit comfortably in the blazer with it buttoned. 

Here’s a couple shots of View B of the Auburn Blazer on model Char. View B has no sleeve or back hem vent and the hem hits at the high hip.

Let’s Sew an Auburn Blazer!

If you need help with fitting, contact us or join the Auburn Blazer Sewalong Facebook group!

Let me know what you think!