November 5, 2020

Calder Pants & Shorts Sewalong Day 2: Sew Pockets & Side Seams


Welcome back to the Calder Pants & Shorts sewalong! Last time, we sewed our darts and crotch seams, and today it’s all about pockets and side seams.

If you’re just joining us, be sure to check out the main Calder sewalong page to get your fill of Calder inspiration as well as tips for preparing your pattern and fabric.

Last time, we worked on sewing up our darts (for those using the pear pelvis option) and our crotch seams. Today we’ll be showing you two different ways of attaching the pockets, and then we’ll finish up for the day by sewing our side seams.

As a reminder, I’m using a green/gray chambray with a beige wrong side, and I’m using contrast thread so that you can see what I’m doing more easily. I’m demonstrating these steps on View B (the shorts) but the construction is the same for all views.

Okay, let’s get back into it!

Finish Pocket Facings

We’ll start with the pocket facing piece. If you’re using a contrast fabric for your pocket bags, this pocket facing piece is what allows the side seam to look seamless when your pocket opens a bit, such as when you sit down. Remember to cut it using your main (outside) fabric, and to apply interfacing to the back for added structure.

We need to finish the long, un-notched edge of the pocket facing. There are two ways to do it:

Option 1: serge it

If you have a serger, this is an easy way to finish that edge. Simply run the long edge through your serger without cutting off any of the fabric.

Option 2: fold and press

If you don’t have a serger, or prefer a cleaner look, fold and press the long edge by 1/2″ (12 mm).

Whichever way you chose to do it, repeat with the other pocket facing piece.

Assemble the Pockets: 2 Methods

We’re now going to show you two ways to assemble and attach the pockets. Let’s quickly chat about each of these two approaches so that you can decide which you prefer.

Option 1: right side of pocket shows inside pants

The first approach is the one described in your instruction booklet. It involves inserting the pockets in what feels like the “wrong” way, but it results in the right side of the pocket bags showing on the inside of your pants. This means that when you take your pants on and off, you’ll see the beautiful side of the fabric you chose for your pockets, and you get to have a little dance party because the inside of your pants are just as nice as the outside. In this approach, if you were to look into your pockets from the outside of the pants, you would see the wrong side of the pocket fabric.

Option 2: wrong side of pocket shows inside pants

The second approach might seem a little more logical as you’re doing it. It involves inserting the pocket in the “right” way, but it results in the wrong side of the pocket bags showing on the inside of your pants. When you take your pants on and off, you’ll see the wrong side of the fabric you chose for your pockets. In this approach, if you were to look into your pockets from the outside of the pants, you would see the right side of the pocket fabric.

The good thing is that neither way truly wrong, and both ways will get your an awesome pair of Calders. So choose which one you prefer and then follow the steps below!

Attach Pockets, Option 1: Right Side of Pocket Shows Inside Pants

We’ll start by taking one of our finished pocket facing and line it up with the notched edge of one of the pocket bag pieces. The two pieces should be WRONG sides here.

Pin the pocket facing to the pocket bag all the way around the pocket facing.

We’re going to now sew around the edge of the pocket facing at 1/4″ (6mm) from the edge of the facing. The entire facing should now be attached to the pocket.

If you used the fold-and-press approach for your pocket facing, you can trim off that excess bit that’s sticking out there at the bottom.

Here’s how it looks from the other side—the right side of the pocket bag should be visible.

Now we can do the same with the second pocket facing and pocket bag.

Okay, our back pocket pieces our assembled and we can leave the other two pocket pieces (now our front pockets pieces) as is.

Let’s take one of our back pocket pieces and pin it to our assembled back legs at the side seam, matching up the notches. The side with the pocket facing should be up against the right side of the back legs, like so:

Let’s sew the pocket to the side seam at a 3/8″ (1 cm) seam allowance.

Now we’re going to finish just that bit of the side seam–I’m using a serger, but you can finish it using your sewing machine if you don’t have a serger.

Press the pocket away from the legs, with the seam allowance pressed towards the pocket. We now need to understitch the seam allowance to the pocket, which means we sew a line of stitching along the pocket facing edge at a 1/8″ (3 mm) from the pocket/legs seam.

Let’s do the same with the other back pocket.

Okay, our back legs and pockets are done, let’s move onto the front pockets.

Taking one of our front pocket bags, we’re going to pin it to the side seam of the assembled front legs, matching up the notches. The WRONG side of the pocket should be up against the right side of the legs, with the right side pointing up towards you, like so:

Again, let’s sew that seam using a 3/8″ (1 cm) seam allowance.

As before, let’s finish just that portion of the side seam with our preferred finishing method.

Finally, we’ll press the pocket open and understitch the seam allowance to the pocket at 1/8″ (3 mm) from the seam.

Repeat that with the other front pocket.

Now that the front and back of the pants are assembled, we can attach them at the side seam. Line up the front and back at one side seam, right sides of pants together (which will be wrong side of pockets together) and pin.

Sew up that side seam and around the pocket bag using a 1/2″ (12 mm) seam allowance, starting at the hem and stopping at the top edge of the pocket bag where it meets the pant legs.

Finish the seam allowance of the seam you just sewed, except for the top of the pocket bag–that bit you should leave unfinished.

Now we’re going to sew down from the top of the pants and up from the bottom of the pocket bag through both pant legs, 1/2″ (12 mm) from the pant edge. We’ll use our notches to know where to stop sewing—if yours have disappeared in the sewing process, you can mark them in chalk.

Sew down to the first notch from the top of the pants, and up to the second notch from the bottom of the pocket bag at 1/2″ (12 mm) seam allowance. Backstitch at both notches to secure your thread.

One last bit and then we’re done with this side: let’s press our pocket towards the front of the pants and baste at the top to the front only.

Repeat these steps on the other side seam, and voila!

If you followed these steps for attaching your pockets, you’re done for today! If you prefer to do the other pocket approach, let’s go through that next.

Attach Pockets, Option 2: Wrong Side of Pocket Shows Inside Pants

As a reminder second approach means that we’ll be seeing the wrong side of the pocket fabric when we look inside the pants, but the right side when we look inside the pockets from the outside of the garment. Let’s get started.

Take one of your pocket facing pieces and lay it over your pocket bag piece, so that the wrong side of the pocket facing is up against the right side of your pocket piece. Pin all around the pocket facing.

We’re going to sew all around the pocket facing, 1/4″ (6 mm) from the edge of the pocket facing. The entire back of the pocket facing will be covered by the pocket bag.

Here’s how it looks on the back:

If you used the fold-and-press method for finishing the long edge of your pocket facing, trim the little bit that’s hanging off the bottom edge.

Let’s do the same with the other pocket.

These are now our back pocket pieces, and we can leave the front pocket pieces alone for the moment.

Taking one of the back pocket pieces, we’re going to pin it to the assembled back legs at the side seam, matching up the notches. Make sure the pocket facing and right side of the pocket fabric are up against the right side of the pant legs.

Sew that seam at a 3/8″ (1 cm) seam allowance and finish just that bit of the seam. Press the pocket open and the seam allowance towards the pocket, and understitch the seam allowance to the pocket 1/8″ (3 mm) from the seam.

(We go through these steps in more detail in option 1 above, if you want to see it done step-by-step.)

Repeat with the other back pocket.

Now we’re going to take one of our front pockets and our assembled front legs. Pin the pocket to the front legs at the side seam, right sides together, matching the notches.

Sew that seam at a 3/8″ (1 cm) seam allowance and finish just that bit of the seam. Press the pocket open and the seam allowance towards the pocket, and understitch the seam allowance to the pocket 1/8″ (3 mm) from the seam.

Let’s repeat that with the second front pocket.

Okay great! The front and back of our pants are now assembled, and we can sew them together at the side seams.

Start by lining up the front and back of the pants at the side seam, right sides together. Pin the legs and all around the pocket bag.

Sew up that side seam and around the pocket bag using a 1/2″ (12 mm) seam allowance, starting at the hem and stopping at the top edge of the pocket bag where it meets the pant legs.

Finish the seam allowance of the seam you just sewed, except for the top of the pocket bag–that bit you should leave unfinished.

Now we’re going to sew down from the top of the pants to the top notch and up from the bottom of the pocket bag to the bottom notch through both pant legs, 1/2″ (12 mm) from the pant edge. (If your notches have disappeared, mark them in tailor’s chalk.) Backstitch at both notches to secure your thread.

Press the pocket towards the front of the pants and baste to the top of the pants, through the front leg only.

Now let’s do the same set of steps with our other side seam!

Ta-da! We’ve attached our pockets and sewn our side seams. Whichever approach you decided to take, we’re going to pause here for today and pick things back up tomorrow, when we’ll attach our waistband and hem our pants. And then we’ll be done!

We want to see your Calders, no matter where you are in the sewing process! Tag your makes on social media with hashtags #CalderPants and #CalderShorts so we can cheer you on to the finish line.

Let me know what you think!