Welcome back to our Blazer Bound blog series! We’re taking you along for the ride as we develop a curve-friendly blazer sewing pattern.
Last time, we showed you the first two muslins. Both were unlined, and we wanted to see what impact a lining would have before we decide what adjustments to make to the overall pattern. We’re sharing photos of that process here today!
The last few weeks have been different around here, to say the least. We’ve had to shut down our studio and move to working entirely remotely due to local social distancing measures. Thankfully we were able to try out this draft of the blazer and photograph it on Jenny and the mannequin a few days before the quarantine began, and we’re sharing photos of that with you today.
It’s been so cool for us to bring you all into our pattern development process and to get your thoughts along the way. As a reminder, the photos you see here are of a first-round muslin, so all of the fit issues you may spot will be sorted out by the time it gets to your hands. Not to worry, that’s often how it goes!
Adding the Lining
A lining can help a jacket sit better and not get caught on other layers, so we didn’t want to move forward on pattern adjustments for the outer layer before trying it with the lining. We add a jersey lining into the existing stretch woven blazer, and for the sleeves lining we used a satin-based cotton because it makes it easier to put the jacket on, and also the sleeves don’t rely on stretch so it doesn’t affect the fit there.
We started by trying the blazer on our mannequin.
You can tell that there are a few spots where there is excess fabric that’s folding or bunching up a bit.
We then used a technique of pinching out the excess fabric and pinning, which has a similar effect as making a dart.
Then we tried it on Jenny to confirm that these adjustments worked. (And again, bear in mind Jenny is currently closer to a 20 in terms of measurements.)
Definitely an improvement!
The next step is to mark those adjustment darts using tailor’s chalk. This helps show our pattern drafter what adjustments to make. Don’t worry, this doesn’t mean there will be actual darts in all of these places! The pieces get adjusted to remove that excess fabric using other methods that don’t result in darts.
In addition to these wrinkles and folds, we found the blazer was coming up slightly too wide at the top, but slightly too narrow through the hips and waist, so we are also re-balancing the ease in those areas.
Now that we’ve identified some of the fitting adjustments we want to make, we’ll be sending these photos and measurements over to our drafter, and she’ll be back to us with a revised pattern. We’re hoping to be able to continue making progress on this pattern despite our entire team being remote at the moment.
Have you ever tried this technique of pinching out excess fabric when doing fitting your own muslins?