Welcome back to our Blazer Bound blog series, where you get to see behind the scenes of our blazer sewing pattern development process, in real time!
We have our first muslin (well, actually our first two muslins) all sewn up and ready to show you, so let’s get started!
Last time, we received the first draft back from our pattern drafter. Carrie immediately got to work sewing up the first muslin.
If you remember back to our research and design phase, we stressed the importance of comfort and range of motion with this pattern. We chose to design the blazer for a stable knit, so we used a scuba we have in our stock for the first muslin. (You can purchase some here if you’d like!)
Here’s Carrie cutting the pieces for the first muslin.
Time to Sew!
Even though we’re using a scuba with a vibrant print, we decided to sew it with the white side as the right side so that it’s easier to see the seam lines on the finished garment.
When we sew up early pattern muslins, we go for the quick-and-dirty approach. That means not finishing any seams, not bothering with closures, and so on. So muslin #1 came together quite quickly.
Muslin #1: Stable Knit
And here it is! We tried it on on both Jenny and our mannequin.
Neither is exactly in line with our sample size (18GH)—the mannequin’s boobs are a bit small, and even with a padded bra (no joke!), her dimensions are slightly different, not to mention she’s also pretty firm everywhere! Jenny, on the other hand, has a 18GH body size, but right now has breastfeeding boobs so is a few inches bigger than the 18 GH. So, we try our samples on both, but it’s only when we go to test on multiple sizes of people that we are able to get a final sense of how the fit is going to work.
This first muslin was… OK? (Jenny also implores me to remind you to overlook her lack of make up, dirty hair day and nursing-bra-boob situation). The basic fit was in the right area, and the back was looking good, but the front looked droopier than intended, also causing pooling at the side of the bust when it was open. And the lapel wasn’t quite working as we imagined. So, given this—and also the fact we got lots of feedback from you that you want something you can wear to work—we thought instead of making changes to this pattern, we’d try using stretch woven to see if that improves things.
Muslin #2: Stretch Woven
So here’s the next round in a stretch denim—and it’s a great improvement!
We also popped in some shoulder pads, which helped tremendously as well.
Because the stretch woven was a success, we’re going to move forward with that as our primary fabric. But we’ll try it again on a thicker knit later on down the road to see if it works with a scuba or ponte too.
We’re loving how the double princess seams look on this blazer. You’ll notice that they’re different than the double princess seams you’d normally see (like on the Harrison Shirt, for example). The seam that’s closer to the center angles forward towards the back of the lapel, which is helping shape the bust and keep the blazer from flapping open when worn unbuttoned, which was an important design goal we identified early on.
Up Next: Revisions to Draft #1
Next up we’re going to be briefing our pattern drafter on some of the changes we’d like to see for the next round. The blazer is a little tricky to put on and take off, so we’re going to try adding a jersey lining. We also want the lapels to be bigger, and we noticed a twist in the sleeves that we’d like to work out, as well as a few other fit issues.
Once we have the revised pattern back from our drafter, we’ll be sewing it up into a new muslin. But overall the fit looks solid, so we’re optimistic that there won’t be numerous rounds of revisions.
What else would you like to know about this muslin? Is there anything that’s surprised you about this process so far? Let us know in the comments below!