November 20, 2017

Rivermont Sewalong Day 5: Assemble Center Back and Kick Pleat

Welcome to all my dress making friends! If you’re making the peplum, you can skip this post.

Today we’re going to be assembling the back of the dress along with the optional kick pleat. Start by finishing the raw edges of the center back on both assembled backs (this is optional if your knit doesn’t fray.)

Pin the two backs, right sides together, matching the waist seam first. If you want, you can baste this junction now to make sure it meets up nicely. Pin up to the back neck and down the skirt to either the hem if you’re not making the kick pleat or to the mark at the top of the kick pleat if you are. Sew on a sewing machine from the back neck down to the hem or the top of the kick pleat. You can use a straight stitch here because this seam doesn’t need to stretch.

If you’re not making the kick pleat, trim off the excess seam allowance and press your seam open. You’re done for today!

If you are making the kick pleat, press your seam open where you’ve sewn. Start by finishing the lower edge of your hem if your knit frays. Turn the back so it is right side up and fold up the hem on either side of the kick pleat by 1″. Pin in place. Draw a line 1 1/2″ from the edge on the left hand side and 1/2″ from the edge on the right hand side.

Sew these lines with a short straight stitch. Trim the corners off the hem and use a point turner to turn right side out. Press so that the kick pleat seam allowances are folded under and the hem is turned up. (Leave the rest of the hem unfolded for now.)

From the wrong side, pin the kick pleat closed with the left side on top of the right. From the right side, mark the diagonal from the top of the kick pleat to the end of the left side.

Sew from the right side through all the layers (you may want to use Wonder Tape or transfer your pins before sewing.)

Clip into the seam allowance at the top of the kick pleat and give the whole center back a good press.

That’s it for today! Tomorrow, we’ll sew the shoulder seams and assemble and attach the facing.




Let me know what you think!