Today, we’ll attach the sleeves to the Turner Dress and finish up the bodice.
We’ll be setting the sleeves in flat, which is the easiest method when you are working with a knit or don’t have much sleeve cap ease to distribute.
Starting with one sleeve, make sure the double notched side of the sleeve is facing the back of the bodice and lay the sleeve on top of the bodice, right sides together, lining up the center notch with the shoulder seam.
Next, match up the ends of the sleeves and the bodice as well as the notches on either side of the armhole and pin. You’ll have to shape the armhole gently to accommodate the sleeve.
Sew the sleeve seam with the bodice side facing up. This allows the feed dogs, which move the fabric on the bottom more quickly, to help ease the sleeve into the armhole. You’ll also need to stretch the armhole gently as you sew. Go slowly, and make sure there aren’t any tucks or folds after you’ve sewn the seam.
Finish the seam if your knit frays, and press the seam allowance towards the sleeve. Repeat these steps with the other sleeve.
Now, let’s wrap up the assembly of our bodice. Lay out the bodice, right sides together, lining up the side seams and sleeve seams. Pin along the side of the bodice, making sure the underarm seam matches up. Sew the side seam and sleeve seam at once, starting at the waist, pivoting at the underarm, and ending at the wrist.
Finish your seam if necessary and, using a sleeve roll or a rolled up towel, press the seam allowance towards the back.
Repeat these steps with the other bodice side seam and sleeve seam.
Finally, turn the bodice right side out and baste the shell and lining together at the waist using a ¼” seam allowance on your sewing machine.
That’s it for today! Next time, we’ll sew and attach the skirt.