The first decision to make when sewing a Springfield Top is which size to choose. Thanks to the three cup sizes it’s more likely that you’ll fit in a “straight” Cashmerette Pattern than many other companies, but of course we all vary and chances are you may not be perfectly in one size. The good news is that sewing gives you tons of flexibility, and it’s easy to grade between sizes.
How to choose your size
There are two measurement charts: one is the Body Measurement chart, and the other is the Finished Garment chart. The Body Measurement chart helps you choose your size based on what numbers you get when you measure your body with a tape measure – it has numbers for your bust (around the fullest part), waist and hip. The Finished Garment chart shows you the size of the actual sewn garment – the difference between that and the Body Measurement chart is called “ease”, and it’s the amount of extra room in the garment that the designer recommends for the clothes to fit well and allow movement.
Generally, you want to start by comparing your measurement with the body measurement chart. However, sometimes you might find that a pattern is fairly loose and if your measurements are between sizes you can actually fit in one. In the case of the Springfield, by comparing the charts you can see that it’s fairly unfitted through the waist – if you look at the size 12 chart, the body measurement is 32″ but the finished garment measurement is 42 3/8″ – so if you fit into the size 12 bust and hip but your waist is a bit bigger, say 35″, you’ll probably still fit in the size 12 just fine!
As with all Cashmerette Patterns, the best bet is to start with your bust measurement – you should use your full bust measurement, which is around the fullest part of your bust. Because of the cup sizing, you may find you could fit in two different bust sizes – in which case, you want to pick the overall size that’s closest to your waist size. So for instance, if your bust is 44″, you could theoretically be a 14 G/H or a 16 C/D. Which one should you pick? Take a look at the waist measurement – if yours is closer to 34″ (size 14), then go with the 14 G/H. If yours is closer to 36″ (size 16), then go with the 16 C/D.
Don’t fret if the cup size doesn’t match up with your bra size – there is so much variation in bra sizing that it’s not possible to perfectly line them up. Use your bust measurement and you’ll be fine.
How to grade between sizes
You may find that even allowing for the extra ease at the waist, you still need to grade between sizes – for instance, you might be a size 18 at the bust, a 20 at the waist and a 22 at the hip.
It’s a fairly straightforward case of “join the dots” when it comes to a simple pattern like the Springfield Top!
First, mark your sizes you need at the bust (in this case, the bottom of the bust dart), waist (where the notch is) and hip (where the side slit marking is).
Next, join those babies up! You want to use slightly curved lines, to give you a smooth side seam.
Now, you have your new side seam! Mark it in full and then trace or cut off your size. Then, you need to do the exact same process for the back piece, marking again at bust height, waist and hip and joining the lines up.
I hope that all makes sense! Let me know if you have any questions about figuring out your size, or grading between sizes.