April 23, 2016

Concord Sewalong: Facings and Side Seams

Today, we’re really going to turn these semi-shirt-shaped flat fabric shenanigans into shirts! If you are making the cropped or mid length shirt, you can skip the first section today because we’re going to add the facings to the long curved-hem version (View C) before we sew our side seams.

Attach curved hem facing (view C)

Lay the front facing on top of the front piece, right sides together and lined up along the long curved side. Carefully sew the facing to the shirt along the long side with a ¼” seam allowance.

Turn the facing to the inside of the shirt and press until your curve is nice and flat. Pin the facing in place from the right side (or use Wonder Tape if you have it).

Stitch the facing in place using a long zigzag stitch on your regular machine. Stitch across both sides of the facing top as well. Give this piece another solid press to flatten out the stitching.

Repeat this process with the back facing.

If you are using fabric that unravels, you should finish the inner edge of the facing first, either by using a serger or a zig zag stitch.

Sewing the side seams

Now we’re ready for our side seams. Mid and cropped length folks can join us again! Start by laying out your shirt right sides together, lining up the underarm seams on one side. Pin this underarm junction with the seam allowance facing towards the sleeve on both sides. Next, pin down the body and up the sleeve, matching the hems and any patterns if you have them.

If you have attached the facings, start your side seam right at the top of the facings. (You can snip a little into your seam allowance to make this easier.)

Sew along this whole side, starting at the hem of the body and finishing at the hem of the sleeve. Take your time as you sew past the underarm seam to make sure everything lays flat.

Press the seam allowance to the back. Repeat with the second side.

Okay, only hems and cuffs left to go! Woo!

9 thoughts on “Concord Sewalong: Facings and Side Seams

  1. Elle Eldridge says:

    Hello! can you explain better how the front and back sides of the shirt are supposed to meet at the bottom side seam when doing a curved hem? The front facing is long and goes past the notch, and the back facing is shorter and doesn’t meet the notch. It isn’t clear how to sew these together. Many thanks.

    1. Hi Elle – apologies, that’s an error we found on the second print run. If you trim the end of the front facing down to match the back facing, it will work. We are about to do a new print run where it will be corrected. Thanks!

      1. Liz T says:

        I’m having a similar issue with the facings. However, in mine the front facing fits perfectly and the back facing comes up an inch or so short from the notch.
        I checked the side seams to make sure I had not cut the back notch in the wrong place, but it looks like the shirt tail is an inch longer in the back than in the front. Should I lengthen the facing?

      2. Terri Miller says:

        I’m having the same issue and I thought it was my sewing. I was about to draft new facings, but extending the side to meet at the top will work. Otherwise, very happy with the fit of the pattern.

  2. I also need some help understanding this as Elle does – so I opted for a style with no facings first 🙂

  3. francescapia says:

    I’m making this, and also have a problem with seeing the side seams after sewing the facing down as instructed. When the facing is attached snd pressed, the side seams on top of it are folded in. What’s the solution? Clip the side seams or what?

    Ps in your next print run, you could also correct the centre front scoop neck. It doesn’t meet the gold at a right angle .

  4. francescapia says:

    I meant the gold.
    I have also just realised that even though I bought the pdf pattern very recently, my front is longer than my back! This after painstakingly sewing the facings on. Seriously? not impressed.

    1. Hi Francesca – we solved this over email, but just to confirm if anyone sees this, the file was corrected a few years ago, but you bought from a vendor who hadn’t updated their files (we automatically sent a new version to everyone who had bought directly from us). If anyone else has an old copy, feel free to email us at hello@cashmerette.com and we’ll send an updated version.

  5. Rosie Mason says:

    Hello! It would helpful to me if you used a contrasting colour thread in the photos. I can’t see what’s sewing and what’s fabric.

Let me know what you think!