Yay! Today we finally get to start sewing! Taking our time and prepping carefully should make the rest of our project go smoothly! Now, to sew the Appleton Dress, you can either use a serger or a standard sewing machine. I used my serger for this dress, but if you’re using a standard machine, make sure you’re using a ballpoint needle and sew the seams with a 2.5mm length, 0.5mm width zigzag stitch unless otherwise noted.
We are going to start our sewing by hemming our two front wraps. This step needs to be done on a standard sewing machine. First, press the vertical hem on both front wrap pieces to the wrong side by 5/8” (1.5 cm).
TIP: When pressing knits, use a low temperature iron and a press-cloth to prevent shiny spots.
Sew this hem at ½” (1 cm) using a straight stitch or a coverstitch if you have one (I don’t!). This hem does not stretch at all, so don’t worry about using a stretch stitch. (TIP: Water soluble tape is my best friend when hemming long pieces of slippery knit. Just place the double-sided tape on the wrong side of the edge of the hem, fold over and stick to the wrong side of the piece. Easy peasy.)
Next we will be reinforcing the waist tie hole. On the right front wrap, sew between the notches with a ¼” (6mm) seam allowance. On the serger, serge between the notches. On the standard sewing machine, sew with a 2.5mm length, 2.0mm width stitch.
Repeat this reinforcing on the right-hand side of the back piece. This will reinforce the hole that the waist tie passes through. If you used a serger, instead of snipping the serger threads, use a tapestry needle and thread them back into the serged stitches for a clean and secure finish.
Finally for today, we are going to sew the front wraps and back piece together at the shoulders. Pin the right front wrap and back together at the shoulder. Stretch a piece of clear elastic a few times and place it along the stitch line on the back piece. Sew through both layers and the elastic with either a serger or standard sewing machine (back to the 2.5mm length, 0.5mm width zigzag stitch.) Repeat with the left front wrap piece and the back. Press the seam allowance towards the back of the dress.
That’s it for today! Come back Wednesday and we’ll start working on our neckline and waist ties!