Why is it that when I have very little time to sew I manage to squeeze it in, but when I have all the time in the world it comes to a screeching halt? Am I the only one? I need to get busier sharpish if I’m ever going to finish my Grainline Studio Cascade Coat before the snowbanks and ice mountains melt.
That said, I did make a start this week. Let’s begin with the good. I made the full lining first – a tip I picked up somewhere I no longer remember (thanks, tip-giver!). The reason it’s a great idea is because if you leave it until the last step in the garment-making process, it’s incredibly tempting to rush it in a bid to finish up. If you make it first, however, you tend to take more care, and you can try it on to check fit – if it doesn’t fit, then it’s less crushing to remake a lining than the whole thing.
My favourite bit so far is the tartan plaid flat binding at the facing/lining junction – I’ve wanted to put that in a coat for ages but always forget for some reason. There was a bit of angst behind this though – I managed to sew the whole thing… before realising I hadn’t put the binding in. I’d already trimmed and graded the seams, and taken the Thinsulate out of the seam allowance so I was terribly tempted to move on. But then I gave myself a virtual slap in the face and a good talking to: don’t cut corners Sewing Jenny! Don’t give in to your mistakes! So I painstakingly marked all the seamlines (as the grading had made the layers offset), ripped all the seams, and put the bias in. It was a bit nerve-wracking, but worth it in the end.
As I underlined the lining with Thinsulate I can’t iron it (because it will disappear as if by magic), so it’s a little puffy in these photos. But in the long term I think my poor shivering body will be grateful for the warm coat, puffiness be damned.
Next up: the coat itself. It’s not tailored – though I may add a back stay – which means it should be a little speedier than my previous attempts, I think. Do you make the lining before the garment? Are there any other times you change up the order of sewing from the “rules”? Come on, my little rebels, share your transgressions.