There are some garments that I think most sewists think of as in an extra-special, extra-“hard” category: swimsuits, bras, jeans and coats come to mind. The silly thing is that most of them aren’t actually that hard or that much more difficult to make than other garments and yet, because they occupy that special mental category, when you manage to make one you feel triumphant.
And so…
Whaaaaa?!?!?!
I am quite overcome. Let’s get one thing out of the way straight up: this pattern has been drafted amazingly well. If you think jeans are hard, think again, because between the fantastic drafting, the instructions and the
sewalong, you’ll be fine. And they totally capture the RTW fit of skinny jeans in a way I have never seen from the Big 4. For this pair, I used the infamous Ginger Jeans kit – these are the heavier “winter” denim (with 3% lycra), together with a metal YKK zip, and the jeans button and rivet included in the kit.
You may have seen
my fitting post last week – based on the comments there and on Pattern Review, here are the changes I made:
– Started with the size 18, view B (allegedly high waisted, but doesn’t really look so on me). If you’re worried about fitting into the sizing range, bear in mind that my waist is 40 – 41″ and the “body measurement” for the 18 waist is 38.5″ and I did no adjustments other than sewing the top side seam at 3/8. As I mentioned before, I think the grading is generous.
– Did a 3/4 inch thin thighs adjustment which basically means you shave excess off the back inner thigh area.
– Did a 1/4 inch flat bum adjustment, which involves dropping the crotch just a little bit
– Then through the basting process, I adjusted seam allowances to give me the best fit (bear in mind I have a larger waist and thinner thighs than average for my size). On the side seams I started at 3/8 at the waist, went to 5/8 through the upper thighs, then down to 1/4 through the calves (which run on the small side in this pattern). On the in-seam I went at 5/8 through the upper thigh, then 1/4 through the calves.
I didn’t get rid of all the back thigh wrinkling, but I did get rid of most of it, and the crotch, err, “issues” are gone.
I used the tutorial to add a pocket stay and I’m a total convert – it definitely holds everything in. I most certainly do not have a flat stomach, but my Ginger Jeans aren’t letting on! You may notice that the very top of the fly front buckles – this happens on all my trousers, and I’m not sure whether there’s a way to fix it? Also, I didn’t interface my waistband because I find they often dig into me which is uncomfortable. However, the side effect of that is that it creases a bit in the middle – I don’t mind as I’ll never actually wear these with something tucked in.
For topstitching, I used my ever-trusty Bernina edgstitching foot – this is the kind of magical tool that I was unaware of as a beginner when I thought all sewists must just have lightyears better hand-eye control than me… Using it lets me get a perfect 1/8 distance from the edge. Then, I used my 1/4 inch foot to do the second line. I increased my thread tension to 7 which helped (before, it was pulling the topstitch thread through too much to the back), and I quickly discovered backstitching doesn’t work with this thread on my machine so I started each seam at a low stitch length instead.
One thing that did help immensely was having all three sewing machines out at the same time: my old Brother for doing the seams, my Bernina for doing the topstitching (it worked like a dream, no hump jumper required!) and my serger for finishing all the seams. It would have taken twice as long if I’d had to switch out the thread constantly…
Here are my beautiful
Vlisco pocket stays during the construction process – you want something fairly thin but firm to get the effect I think. I decided to get all fancy and French seamed them but actually this wasn’t my brightest idea as it’s hard to do that round a curve, so they’re a little puckered on the inside.
Being a bit of a fool I decided to make these on Friday night in order to take photos on Saturday morning, so I ended up doing my first ever rivets at 1am… Oops. However, after 3 failed attempts I finally got the hang of it. As I didn’t have wire cutters to trim the rivet posts, I used spacers on the back of them instead – basically I cut scraps of denim, and used 3 layers of denim on the back of the rivet, and then trimmed around it afterwards. Worked like a charm. I did find the rivet post punctured the front of the rivet ever so slightly but I think that’s somewhat unavoidable unless you have a proper rivet press.
Here’s a big picture of my bum for you. I don’t usually care very much for pictures of my rather flat, rather low, bum, but I have to offer my thanks to Heather for an entirely acceptable back view in these!
I used the height of the pockets we’d tested on my muslin, and I do like them though they could probably be a bit improved. Some folks suggested that I shorten the yoke and I did a little bit, but maybe could more. Again though, I’ll never wear these with something tucked in so really the more relevant back view is the one above, and I think it looks fine.
So there we have it: my very first pair of jeans, and they are BY FAR the most well-fitting jeans I’ve ever owned. Who’d have thought it? I am slightly burned out now having made 3 pairs (including my muslins) in a week, so I’m going to put the other denim from my kit away for a bit, but trust me, I’ll be back before long.
Who else has tried the Ginger Jeans? Do you love them too?
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BABE. These look amazing! High fives around!!
HIGH FIVE! JCro4Eva
nice work! must be such an achievement to make your own jeans!
It does feel like quite the achievement! We all need to feel smug sometimes 😀
Ummm AMAZING. I think this is my favourite pair I’ve seen yet in terms of fit. Heather poured some kind of witchcraft into this pattern, they seem to fit and flatter everyone! I’m looking out for black twill/denim to make my next pair.
Oh thanks so much Katie! I was surprised by how relatively-easy they were to fit, especially as I don’t have the high hip/waist ratio that I think they were designed for. Can’t wait to see your black twill ones – I have a similar thought…
Good on you! these look terrific. And, you rear doesn’t look the least bit flat. These are working for you
Ha ha, thanks! My bum needs all the help it can get
Those are flippin’ amazing!!!!! Looking back at your RTW jeans, these are so much better than those! Totally inspired to try jeans, and this pattern even!
Thanks! And yes I’m a little embarrassed at how much better these are than my RTW – I’m never going back
They look great! I just downloaded the pattern a few days ago, and I’m happy to see more confirmation that it looks good on someone close to my size!
Awesome! Hope yours work out well. Doing lots of basting and trying-on is definitely worth it, in my experience.
these look amazing! so well fitted! who needs RTW right?!
RTW begone!
They look awesome, well done!
Thanks so much, L
Jenny! So Amazing! Those look fabulous on you and realllly flatter you! Great job!
Andie! Thanks!
You made jeans! They look awesome and so flattering. Truly. And you almost convinced me they aren’t as scary as they seem… almost. Congrats!
I did, right?! And they really aren’t scary if you have a few garments under your belt – you’ll be surprised…
Those jeans are fantastic! You’re making me want to get my pattern out and cut into some denim!
DO IT DO IT DO IT
Gah, they’re perfect Jenny! I have the pattern and was massively tempted to try it out after seeing What Katie Sews’ version, seeing yours has just tipped me over the edge. Just ordered some denim…. Honestly they are so flattering, fab, fab work! x
Oh thanks Jane! I’m sure your will be awesome as well – the denim does make all the difference.
They look great on you! I just finished a pair on New Years Day that I’ve yet to get posted, but I’ve worn them 4 times already since then. They are probably the most comfortable pair of jeans I’ve ever owned. I wasn’t as brave as you though and for my first pair, I skipped the rivets. I bar tacked the heck out of them instead.
The rivets are definitely a bit tricky – you need to practice a bit first, but I like the professional look of them
Great job!!! Love love love!
Thanks Kate!
These look incredible. I am working on jeans myself and affirm that this is hard work paid off. Well done and thanks for sharing the pictures!
Good luck with your jeans Accacia!
They look great! I hope to one day own two sewing machines too so that I don’t have to change out my threads between regular and topstitching when making jeans. It is a pain!
Ah yes I must say that having two makes a big difference. My tip is that if you ever decide to upgrade your machine, keep the old one. I almost didn’t, and I’m so glad I didn’t make that mistake!
Fabulous! They fit you perfectly.
Merci Cynthia!
YES
WUT
Wow, these are brilliant, really inspiring!
Thanks Suzie!
I’m saying this with as few creep vibes as possible: that is one hot crotch and butt. SUper great fit and your bum really looks smashing! Although yes, that yoke could come up 1/2″ for the next round. Brava!
Dear Mrs Creep, god, what a creep.
BUT A CREEP WITH WITCHCRAFT AND CRAZY DRAFTING SKILLZ. GO YOU!
And yeah, my general pelvic area does look pretty smashing, even I must admit.
Question for you ladies. If you shorten the yoke by removing 1/2 an inch, do you add that 1/2 inch to the top of the legs where it joins the yoke?
Yes Staci, you’re basically just moving the yoke line higher up
Wow! Those look phenomenal.
Thanks Alicia!
These are so fantastic on you, dude! I’m majorly impressed! You sewed them so, so beautifully!
Thanks Ginger! They were a lot easier than I imagined, but 2 muslins definitely helped
That Ginger is just pure magic, it seems… Those jeans look great on you!
They were magic!
These are gorgeous on you!!! What a great fit!
I love both my pairs, and I cannot believe how awesome this pattern is on everyone I’ve seen so far!
Thanks Katie! I can’t wait to make more pairs too….
They look great! I’m making my own right now and I’m happy to see how they are working for everyone. So far so good for me.
Oh that’s excited Tiffany – I hope they turn out well (I’m sure they will…)
Those look amazing on you! Great job, I am sooo impressed!
Thank you!
Wow, Wow and WOW!!!!!!!! Those look amazing! I’ve been waffling back and forth on whether or not to buy this pattern and you’ve just convinced me. I’ve tried three other jeans patterns without much success. Every pattern I’ve tested so far ends up looking like grandma’s jeans for plus sized gals….ugh! Cannot wait to try the Ginger pattern now 🙂
Thanks for the inspiration! 🙂
Thanks! These are most definitely not your grandma’s jeans…
These look fantastic on you Jenny!! You did a lovely job! I can’t get over how incredible this pattern is – and how amazing it looks on everyone who sews it up. Cant’ wait to see your next pair!
Thank you, Heather!
These look fantastic, and they really do make your bum look amazing.
My bum thanks you Michelle! ;D
Jenny you look FANTASTIC!! And your bum looks great!
I must admit though, I am KICKING myself for not buying one of those kits. Fingers crossed she gets more soon
Thanks Sophie-Lee! I think the next time they become available they’re going to get snapped up in a hot minute… Though I did notice that Taylor Tailor also has cone denim (not sure if it’s the same type exactly)
Hot damn, these look fantastic! Bravo!
Why thanks!
Gorgeous. Gorgeous. Gorgeous! These look incredible! Excellent job with the fit and stitch on these!
Thanks very much Michelle!
These make me want to drop everything and go muslin a pair of Gingers right now. These are absolutely fabulous – possibly the best Gingers I’ve seen to date!
That’s very kind of you to say! You should probably drop everything and go muslin a pair right now…
Oh……WOW.
Jenny these are so fricking amazing. You know, I haven’t actually really liked any of the Gingers I have seen, and I didn’t get what the hype was about but I do now. These are stunning, so chic and flattering and well made. Clever you!
Ah, thanks Rosie! It makes a difference to see patterns on someone close to ones own size, I find… sometimes it’s not until then that something clicks for me.
Holy moly, those are fantastic. We have similar butt/ hip shapes so I am so thrilled to see yours looking svelte in those jeans. I’ve been meaning to buy the pattern and notions for awhile, but I’m buried in satin for the next few months (formats to alter and a wedding dress to sew). So making a pair of Gingers for myself will have to wait until spring. Maybe I’ll chop them and make a pair of walking shorts? Hmmmm
Thanks, butt/hip sister! You should totally try to slip a pair in among all that satin!
They look great but what’s even better is how thrilled you are – nice job lady.
Ah, thanks 🙂
Goodness gracious! They are ridiculously flattering! I like how the silhouette is tapered but there’s still some ease through the knees and calves – my favorite kind of jeans. Re: the waistband, I don’t like rigid waistbands either and I’ve been considering using some kind of stretch woven as a sew-in interfacing. I’ll report back if I ever get around to trying!
Aren’t they just? I’m not sure I’ve ever actually owned flattering jeans before, so it’s a bit of a new thing to me!
These turned out terrific! You sold me on this pattern.
You should definitely try them, Candice!
These jeans look amazing on you! Fantastic job!
Thanks!
These look so great!! Nice work on the fitting, your efforts really paid off.
Thanks Lisa! It’s great when fitting actually has results 🙂
Excellent job with construction and fit! Enjoy!
Thank you!
just GORGEOUS.
Far better than the RTW you used to wear.
I agree that they’re much better!
Like a boss, Jenny. Like a freaking JEANS MAKING boss!
Why thank you Amanda. I aim for maximum bossness at all times
Check it out!! OMG you are a jeans superstar. I’ve got this pattern lined up to tackle in Autumn and just can’t wait. Every pair of these jeans I’ve seen have just been so very flattering no matter the body shape. How on earth did Heather do it???
I have no idea!! I wasn’t sure they’d suit me due to the lack of hip-curviness, but they do indeed. I think the key is basting and fitting as you go
Jenny those are fantastic. I bet Heather sells a ton of patterns based on this review. I’m in the middle of putting a pair together and my muslin (shorts) looked pretty good.
Great to hear! Hope the final version work out.
Oh, these look so good! I am still working on re-cutting mine in a smaller size. Hope mine look as good as yours!
Can’t wait to see them Nicole!
They look awesome!! Heather has totally started a trend, almost a war! against RTW jeans! 😉
She’s a one-woman trend machine 😀
I bet you won’t go back to RTW jeans!
Nope 😀
Nicely done. It’s always so gratifying to finish off a pair of jeans!
Indeed it is!
Great job, they look amazing!!
Thanks Sandra!
Really, really nice job!!! Having just gotten through my own first pair of jeans, I can say well fitting skinny jeans are an animal I’ve never spotted in the RTW wild and it’s pretty satisfying to be able to make such a thing! Yours look great!!
Isn’t is just? There’s no way I could get a pair to fit me properly from a store
So nice!
Thank you, Gail
Fantastic!
Thanks Rose!
Amazing! You’ve given me a kick up the bum to get on with mine! SUCH beautiful topstitching!
Yeah, give it a go Fiona! Once you try them you won’t go back…
This absolutely looks amazing!!! you did such a great job!!
Wow, they do indeed look lovely! I’m pretty amazed how good these jeans look on such a variety of figures! I have to admit, I bought the pattern in December even though I hardly ever wear jeans. Maybe twice a year, since I find them a lot less comfortable than dresses or skirts. Maybe the Gingers will convince me otherwise? 😉
Holy cow. They do NOT look like any RTW jeans in my curvy shops. I have been wistfully staring at an upstate ny sewing weekend that has a Ginger workgroup…. now your review has me itching to register. Campworkroomsocial.Com Now, I need win a lottery.
I just discovered your blog via your inspiring interview on Seamwork Radio. I am now perusing the archives of your blog and am suitably impressed! These jeans are awesome!