October 31, 2014

Coating with Cashmerette: Entering the final stretch

The apparently never ending cashmere coat saga continues! But is, thank heavens, nearing completion. 
So after all the interfacing-ripping and re-steaming and shaping, I found that the upper side panel (above the dart) was now waving… ARGH. This is *probably* because of being overworked and now under-supported, so I decided to do what I probably should have done all along: hand-baste horsehair canvas to the section. This is the first time I’ve ever done it, and I was skeptical that the stitches wouldn’t show on the right side, but turns out it isn’t that hard. I followed my trusty Singer tailoring book, and the result is fine (I know it isn’t perfect!). 

The benefit to this is that it’s now more stable, and the canvas takes a curve much better than the cashmere so it better for shaping. It’s still not 100% perfect on the right side but I’m really, really hoping that a professional pressing at the end will smooth everything out.

Next up, I started the hem – I’m following Emma One Sock’s lining bagging tutorial (which involves hand setting the sleeves), and I started by gently pressing the hem up (with 1/2 inch of canvas extending beyond the fold to get a soft fold), basting it down with silk thread, and then hand blind stitching it down about 3/4 inch from the raw edge.

The next stage is completing the backs of the bound buttonholes, and then bagging the lining… and then done!  Sadly, I’m traveling for work a bunch at the moment but I’m hoping that by the end of November it should all be done, just in time for the weather to be too cold to wear it… Oops! I will just have to swan around inside in it instead.

8 thoughts on “Coating with Cashmerette: Entering the final stretch

  1. cidell says:

    Thanks for keeping us updated. I’m working (well, about to muslin) a winter coat myself that is all block fused. I was thinking I should probably man up and also use hair canvas for support. Thanks also for pointing out the canvas in the hem. Previously, I used wiggan. But, I haven’t found the heavy one I used prior. Canvas is likely a great sub.

    1. Jenny says:

      I would definitely recommend testing how well your interfaced fabric steams around curves – if it doesn’t work well, then ripping it out from the seam allowances *before* construction would be a lot easier than what I did!! Hopefully it works for your fabric though (it did for mine last year). The horsehair canvas has always worked well for me in hems.

  2. Andrea says:

    So glad to see you are moving forward again with the project. I too, am still plugging along on my sons jacket. I got pulled away with other work. (A wedding which I can’t blog about right now.) I hope to get his done soon. Maybe like you by the end of November.. You are definitely motivating me.

  3. Sara A. says:

    Have you thought of interlining with quilt batting or fleece? That might extend the wearing life of your coat without adding too much bulk. Can’t wait to see the finished project!

  4. KimP says:

    I admire your fortitude on this one, Jenny!. I might not have had the will power to see this one through. I think you are going to be rewarded for your stick-to-it-ness!

  5. Madalynne says:

    I love your determination to finish! I’m cheering you on to the finish line.

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  7. Brava, Jenny! I can’t wait to see the finished coat. I love the emeraldy color.

    I have a question about coatmaking. I’m working on my first, http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v1419-products-48740.php?page_id=174. Do you have a preference for a way to do a FBA? I just made another muslin. I went down a size above the waistline, which took care of the too-low armhole trouble and gave me a much better fit in the shoulders. I just need a wee more room in the bust, perhaps an inch around.

Let me know what you think!