September 30, 2014

Coating with Cashmerette: Making progress

It’s starting to look like a coat! Sewing began apace this weekend.

First up: bound buttonholes. Once again I used Karen’s Bound Buttonhole eBook which is essential reading: so easy to follow! Such nice results! I love bound buttonholes – I was never even aware of them before I started sewing, but now they’re the kind of craftsmanship that I notice and appreciate on garments, and they’re actually pretty easy once you’ve practiced a few times. The key trick is sewing the two parallel lines *precisely* the same length, which means not just sewing to your chalk line, but sewing to the same *side* of the chalk line. While I’m not the most accurate sewist, I’m getting better at this.

The interfaced cashmere also took the buttonholes really well. Of course, I did manage (despite doing a test buttonhole) to initially sew the welts onto the *wrong* side of the fabric as opposed to the right side of the fabric, as I did the last time I made a coat. But luckily it was caught before too much irreversible slashing had happened, and I was able to do a rescue.

The finished things, basted shut (which is why they look a little hairy)

Then, I constructed the back pieces, being really careful to follow proper pressing etiquette, most crucially leaving each seam to entirely cool under a clapper before moving onto the next bit. I tried to be industrious and start doing other sections during the process…
Then, I attached the facings to the lining, and just for kicks, decided to understitch the seam allowance down with coral thread to match the flamingos’ beaks. And why not.
Those bits done, I did a bit of tailoring on the lapel collar, fell stitching twill tape along the edges (and also along the lapel edge of the coat facing too) to hopefully get a crisp result on the final collar. I haven’t done this before so fingers crossed I did it correctly, especially as it took ages.
So, quite a bit of progress but join me again soon for an unfortunate turn of events… DRAMA!

18 thoughts on “Coating with Cashmerette: Making progress

  1. Caroline says:

    Wow! That looks amazing. I love the lining – can’t wait to see the finished product.

  2. oh you are so far ahead of me in your coat – i’m still muslining! but hoping to finish that and get fabric prepped by the weekend. i have karens bound buttonholes book too – it looks great and i’m excited to try it out!

    1. Jenny says:

      I mis lined this pattern last year so I got a head start! That said just wait for the drama as the smooth sailing stops here…

  3. It looks like things are going well, but I gotta be honest…I am looking forward to the drama! Love the coral stitching on the lining. That is a great little detail.

    1. Jenny says:

      Believe me, it’s coming…..!

  4. Margo B says:

    The lining!!! WOW. Can’t wait to see the finished coat!

  5. Madalynne says:

    I’m eating up these posts. Literally.

  6. dottiedoodle says:

    It looks amazing! Very concerned about the drama…

  7. Kaitlyn says:

    The colour looks fantastic, and the lining is so cute! Hope your drama is too dramatic!

  8. Is that muslin on the hem line?

    Coral stitching for the win!

    1. Jenny says:

      It is – following the Singer book, I put about 2.5 inches in the hem, so that it extends over the hem fold (i.e. it won’t stop at the fold), and the top is pinked so it doesn’t show through (theoretically). It makes the hem nice and crisp

    2. Twas what I thought. I’m taking my coat pretty seriously this year, and I’m thoroughly enjoying yours . . . Mine won’t be until mid October, or so . . . I’m waiting on the canvas now. I have a neurotic spread sheet started of what to do . . . I mean, I’m–ahem–400+ bucks in I might as well make this precise. 😉

  9. lisa g. says:

    this is looking so beautiful!

  10. It’s looking beautiful. Thank you for sharing this. I start muslining (sp?) my first coat (I’m doing the Vogue 1419 sewalong) next week. I’m still nervous, but your post are making the idea a lot less intimidating.

    1. Jenny says:

      You know, I realized last year that making a coat is basically exactly the same as making a shirtdress – it’s just a bodice, skirt, arms, collar and buttons. Yeah there’s more tailoring but it’s not actually that scary, so good for you and hope it goes well!

  11. How long does it take for a seam to cool under a clapper?

    1. Jenny says:

      Not that long – maybe a minute? It takes longer for it to go 100% cool but that seems to work pretty well. But as a general rule leave it as long as you can!

  12. Sam says:

    This is looking really good. Gorgeous colour and I love that lining! I’m planning a coat this year, but haven’t even started the muslin yet!

Let me know what you think!