February 1, 2013

Raglan sleeves: not for the busty.


Life can’t all just be wrap dresses, you know? No, there’s room for… fixed wrap dresses! Yeah. Mixing it up.

I bought pattern V8825 a while ago; it’s classified as “Very Easy Vogue” which is basically another example of the bitchy fashion industry making you feel bad about yourself. Very Easy, Vogue? Srsly?

Henceforth, I shall call this Moderately Challenging Vogue V8825.

Not to veer off subject, but those of you who are unfamiliar with home-clothes-making may be unaware of the hilarity of pattern illustrations. There are normally two – one that’s a sketch, typically in a really 80s style, with bizarro styling, and crazy colours. The only below is actually not *quite* as bad as they often are, but still – check out those sleeves!

Then, the back has a line technical drawing, which is where you actually see what it’s going to look like. It’s a bit like looking at a new house’s floor plan vs. how the current folks have decorated it. You don’t have to keep the flock wallpaper!
I thought this was promising because 1) I’m all about the V necks 2) I’m all about the long, long waist ties.

In the end, putting this together was… ok. I had some really lovely aubergine super-soft bamboo jersey from Joann’s Fabric, which is highly surprising as Joann’s is an overlit, depression-inducing warehouse where polyester goes to die. But this one time, my trip to the suburbs paid off!

I did do a bit of adjusting, what with all my new Sewing Skillz. I changed out the sleeves – no bell sleeves for me, thx. Instead, I reduced them to 13″ diameter, which seemed to work. However, they’re still in the raglan style – which basically means that the bodice and sleeve are cut from one piece, so there’s no “armhole” per se. What have we discovered? That that’s not super-flattering for the busty among us. So I’m going to try to adjust the pattern next time to have a regular bodice side and sleeve.

The other thing I did was to add an interfaced self-facing to the neckline, which basically means the neckline folds over and underneath it, I’ve ironed on a slightly stiffer fabric which stops the jersey from warping. It took a few tries for me to get this to work, so the neckline is *mildly* mangled, but hey ho.

And here it is! Thanks to Andrea for standing on a chair to take this. The things friends will do, eh?

I have a few projects which haven’t been documented yet, and a hectic weekend of adjusting and re-working to get on with. Till soon!

2 thoughts on “Raglan sleeves: not for the busty.

  1. Tanya says:

    I like how you altered the sleeves on your version of Vogue 8825 and I like your take on the dress – however I have seen other full busted people in the dress and it suits them for example. I was thinking the bell-shaped sleeves, helps to ‘balance’ out the bust area.

    http://mezzocouture.com/2012/12/12/my-take-on-vogue-8825/
    http://itsmelaniedarling.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/vogue-8825-my-favorite-dress-today.html

    I too am full busted like yourself and the reason why I was going to make this dress, because wrap or mock wrap dress usually tend to flatter us more, so I’ll probably do the following alteration: http://gorgeousthings.blogspot.co.uk/2007/03/raising-neckline.html, so I won’t have to wear a camisole underneath. I have found it interesting looking at everyone’s interpretation of the design for my inspiration.

  2. C R Weir says:

    Love the amusing sarcasm, I discovered your blog after listening to you on the Love to Sew Podcast, it’s a revelation as I’m definitely one who cuts the largest size on normal indie patterns and then slashes and adds a bit 😉

Let me know what you think!